Old tools

[Inor]

As most of you know, I have a thing for old tools, especially old hand planes.

When we were living in Minnesota, Mrs Inor used to go to garage sales all the time. If they had some decent looking old hand planes she would buy them for me. She does not know much about the collectable value of tools, but she does know a quality tool when she sees one and if they were less than $3, she would buy them. Usually, I just wrapped them up carefully in a towel for storage with the intent of eventually refinishing them. We had several boxes of them when we moved. A couple days ago I finally found them and started unpacking them and going through the planes in them. Several are Stantons or Craftsmans from the 1950's and 60's, but there are also several vintage Stanley-Baileys too. The fact that she bought all of them for less than $3 each is amazing to me.

Today, I found this little baby:

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It is a Number 5 1/4 Type 13 Jack Plane, made between 1925 and 1928.

Giving it a quick look-over, it is in excellent shape. It is obviously rusty, but there is only very minor pitting and all of it is just on the surface. The varnish on the Rosewood tote and knob is not even cracked. The only thing I think might be wrong with it is, I think the Cap Iron may have been replaced because it does not have the black Stanley logo that would have been on a Type 13. That is not an issue for me because I do not intend for it to sit on a shelf and look nice; I intend to use it for its intended purpose.

[Big Ken]

If you don't mind me asking what is the true value of a tool such as that, I hit a garage sale every once in a whileand might be something to take notice of.

[Inor]

I started by disassembling it.

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The japaning has a few chips but is still in pretty good shape for a tool that is at least 93 years old. If I were restoring it, I would probably sand blast it and redo the japaning. But for what I am going to use it for, I consider the minor chipping to be beauty marks.

Whoever had it obviously loved it and took great care of it. He was also obviously a talented right-handed woodworker. The iron was sharpened by hand without a jig or a grinder. It is easy to tell because the corners are little more ground down than the center with the right side being more ground than the left. I will use a jig to get back to being perfectly square again but will always hand-sharpen it. Only a jack-pine savage would use a jig for day-to-day sharpening. :cool:

After spending about an hour scrubbing it down good with a brass brush and mineral spirits, I started to work on cleaning up the Frog and the Body. I started with M2 emory cloth on a piece of float glass. Then went to 100 grit for trueing the surfaces. I was surprised at how even the surfaces were worn. The plane has obviously seen quite a bit of use, but whoever used it knew how to use it. (You can always tell when a plane is used cocked at an angle, rather than straight, because there will be small valley running on the sole from the left-front corner to the right rear for a righty.). This plane had none of that.

I initially thought the Iron might have been replaced because I did not initially see the Stanley stamping on it. But after I got some of the snarf cleaned off, it did appear and upon checking, it is consistent with the stamping they used on the Type 13's.

I spent a total of about 4 hours on it this evening and got the Frog and the Body flattened and sanded through 150 grit. The grits will start going much quicker now. I will only take the Frog up to 220 or 320 grit, but I am planning on taking the body all the way to 2000 grit. Once I get to 400 grit, I will also start working the Cap Iron and the Chip Breaker with sandpaper as well.

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It is a slow and dirty process, but I forgot how much I really enjoy breathing new life into vintage tools. I think this baby is going to be a really sweet little Jack Plane when I get it done; much better than the crap you spend $300+ dollars for now!

[Inor]

If you don't mind me asking what is the true value of a tool such as that, I hit a garage sale every once in a whileand might be something to take notice of.

On E-Bay, they are selling for $200-$300 for a really nice one. Now if you can find a Stanley No 1, even in crappy shape they are north of $1000!

[BucketBack]

I bought a couple of old Stanley planes at a garage sale a few years ago. I just put them in the bottom of the Kennedy Roll Away and forgot about them. It may be time to take a peek at them.

[Inor]

I bought a couple of old Stanley planes at a garage sale a few years ago. I just put them in the bottom of the Kennedy Roll Away and forgot about them. It may be time to take a peek at them.

I use this site to check the ages.

https://woodandshop.com/identify-stanley-hand-plane-age-type-study/

[Mad Trapper]

I too have collected a bunch of old planes, some small but I also have a real big one ~2 feet long. I'd have to check the makers?

I started to learn traditional timber framing from an old gentleman who many considered a master, Richard "Dick" Babcock. He taught me to do layout of beams, posts and braces without the use of a square, or tape/ruler. The tools used are a large divider/compass, plumb bob, and chalk line. You can make things perfectly square and layout precise angles. You can use those tools to mark logs to be hewn into timbers, and mark the joinery on the timbers.

I've also acquired a collection of other hand tools used to convert trees into a timber frame. Two man saws for felling (thin and flexible) and bucking (wider in depth and less flexible). Hand saws for ripping and crosscuts. A large collection of framing chisels of various size, corner chisels, and a large slick. Hand augers, hand drilling braces, and a hand boring machine, all used to open pockets for mortices and bore holes for pegs. Axes and hatchets.

All these tools are antique but in excellent working condition. As Inor mentioned with the planes it takes some skill to maintain/sharpen many of these tools.

The saws need not only to be sharpened with proper files, but the teeth "set" to maintain a kerf so the saws won't bind. The two man saws also have rakers that are filed to be sharp and peel out the scored wood from the kerf, and also set the depth of the cut for the cutting teeth (depth set different for hard- vs soft-woods). The chisels are sharpened much like iron on a plane Inor mentioned, using various stones. The axes and auger bits sharpened with both files and stones.

I don't have any pictures handy but can take some if if anyone is interested?

On old frames there would be a beam that had a series of circles scribed into it with a compass. These circles were reference for laying out the joinery on the whole frame. Framers would set their compass from these circles as they laid out the joinery. You'll notice "the star of David" was laid out to get perfectly square sides , and ends on the beams. Laying out braces with a compass/divider is a little more involved, but you can make perfect 45 degree braces, or 30 60 degree braces, and layout their mortices too.

Here are a couple of sketches I did showing layout of posts and beams for a timber frame.

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To learn, my first project was a "timber framed" woodrack, for inside the house from some 4 X 4" ash I milled up ( cheated there milled not hewn). A few pictures showing the woodrack and some of the layout/joinery (circles/chalk lines) on the tie beams on the bottom. I used a shouldered M + T joint on the tie so it could handle the weight of a full rack of wood. Everything was square and the joinery tight.

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Hope I did not hijack your thread @Inor. I'll get some tool pictures next post.

[Inor]

I too have collected a bunch of old planes, some small but I also have a real big one ~2 feet long. I'd have to check the makers?

I started to learn traditional timber framing from an old gentleman who many considered a master, Richard "Dick" Babcock. He taught me to do layout of beams, posts and braces without the use of a square, or tape/ruler. The tools used are a large divider/compass, plumb bob, and chalk line. You can make things perfectly square and layout precise angles. You can use those tools to mark logs to be hewn into timbers, and mark the joinery on the timbers.

I've also acquired a collection of other hand tools used to convert trees into a timber frame. Two man saws for felling (thin and flexible) and bucking (wider in depth and less flexible). Hand saws for ripping and crosscuts. A large collection of framing chisels of various size, corner chisels, and a large slick. Hand augers, hand drilling braces, and a hand boring machine, all used to open pockets for mortices and bore holes for pegs. Axes and hatchets.

All these tools are antique but in excellent working condition. As Inor mentioned with the planes it takes some skill to maintain/sharpen many of these tools.

The saws need not only to be sharpened with proper files, but the teeth "set" to maintain a kerf so the saws won't bind. The two man saws also have rakers that are filed to be sharp and peel out the scored wood from the kerf, and also set the depth of the cut for the cutting teeth (depth set different for hard- vs soft-woods). The chisels are sharpened much like iron on a plane Inor mentioned, using various stones. The axes and auger bits sharpened with both files and stones.

I don't have any pictures handy but can take some if if anyone is interested?

On old frames there would be a beam that had a series of circles scribed into it with a compass. These circles were reference for laying out the joinery on the whole frame. Framers would set their compass from these circles as they laid out the joinery. You'll notice "the star of David" was laid out to get perfectly square sides , and ends on the beams. Laying out braces with a compass/divider is a little more involved, but you can make perfect 45 degree braces, or 30 60 degree braces, and layout their mortices too.

Here are a couple of sketches I did showing layout of posts and beams for a timber frame.

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To learn, my first project was a "timber framed" woodrack, for inside the house from some 4 X 4" ash I milled up ( cheated there milled not hewn). A few pictures showing the woodrack and some of the layout/joinery (circles/chalk lines) on the tie beams on the bottom. I used a shouldered M + T joint on the tie so it could handle the weight of a full rack of wood. Everything was square and the joinery tight.

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Hope I did not hijack your thread @Inor. I'll get some tool pictures next post.

Not at all!!! This is GREAT stuff!

I never learned much about timber. That is a whole 'nother skill level beyond my capabilities.

I learned furniture making (both by hand and machine) and that led to learning cabinetry out of necessity. Yes I know, usually it works the other way around. I finally have enough done on the homestead that I can finally devote some time to updating my shop including upgrading some machines and reviving a bunch of old hand tools I have been putting off.

[Mad Trapper]

The guy, Richard Babcock, I learned about TF from did it for many years. He did things the old ways. I wish I had gotten to do some restorations of old houses/barns with him. People who run the Timber Framing Guild learned from him.

Some of the buildings were 1600s. Some huge barns that he took down and raised using gin poles to lift the timbers.

I have some pictures from his books. Dick has passed but he gave me permission to post pictures from his work with proper attribution.

This is a HUGE german barn from Hudson valley NY, Dick took down, restored and put back up in Va. It's the building used for Wolftrap Performing Arts Center. The middle bent has a clear 40 foot span, using what they call a swing beam. That beam is 14 X 18 inches thick on the bottom cord, 10 X 12 inches top cord. That span was incorporated so wagons could drive inside the barn and be able to turn around, without having a post in the way.

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Here is how to layout a brace using a compass/divider. Note you can do layout with irregular/hewn/curved wood. This is for a 45 degree brace ( 1, 1, root of 2 triangle). This is my own work, figured it out from what Dick taught me.

Layout is based on the big circle (dia = dept of the brace) and the triangles derived from it.

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[Big Ken]

On E-Bay, they are selling for $200-$300 for a really nice one. Now if you can find a Stanley No 1, even in crappy shape they are north of $1000!

:bongodrums: Well that'll be worth keeping an eye out for.

[Mad Trapper]

@Inor, You have inspired me to look over some of my planes!!! The link you posted let me figure out how old they are.

One is a type 7, mfg 1893-1899. It needs a good cleaning, rust is just surface, iron is sharp and nice and square, but is in great shape to use as a working plane. I gave it a wipe down and coat of oil. It's been sitting in my tool shed. I think I did O.K., if I remember I paid $40 for it.

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[Inor]

@Inor, You have inspired me to look over some of my planes!!! The link you posted let me figure out how old they are.

One is a type 7, mfg 1893-1899. It needs a good cleaning, rust is just surface, iron is sharp and nice and square, but is in great shape to use as a working plane. I gave it a wipe down and coat of oil. It's been sitting in my tool shed. I think I did O.K., if I remember I paid $40 for it.

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$40 for a usable No 7 is a steal! Atta boy!!! Spend a few hours on it and you will have damn good Jointer's plane!

Just as a reference, here is a new No 7 that is roughly the same quality as yours:

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/bench/72533-veritas-custom-number-7-jointer-plane?item=06P0771A

I have a No 8, a little newer than yours, that is calling me to refinish it into a Shooting plane. But before I can start on it, I have to find where I can get some sticky-backed roll sandpaper. It is far too big to work the body on the little piece of float glass I have. I will have to stick some sandpaper to my table saw top to get that one working again.

[Inor]

I just finished up my 5 1/4 about 45 minutes ago. It came out better than I hoped it would!

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There were a couple of scratches in the sole where the previous owner must have hit a nail. They are not horrible and do not affect the usability of it, but they were a little deeper than I cared to go.

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I figure I have just shy of 20 hours in it getting it cleaned up and tuned. Straightening the iron was the worst. I have over 6 hours just getting it straight before I could even start sharpening it. But once I got it square and got the angle back to 25 degrees, sharpening it was a breeze. I took the primary angle up to 4000 grit then stropped it. I put a heavy secondary angle on it by hand somewhere around 27 or 28 degrees. That I took up to 16000 grit before stropping.

I intentionally chose the piece of black walnut in the picture to test it because the grain goes every which way. It cuts like butter! Even though it is a Jack plane, I set the frog up as a smoothing plane just to see how thin I could get the shaving. I got it to consistently cut below 1/1000 of an inch. I could unroll the walnut shaving and still read a pencil mark through it!

The other thing I learned... I initially thought the Cap Iron may not have been original, but once I cleaned all the crap from the inside if it, I discovered the casting was dated 26-3. Thus, it was cast in the 3rd quarter of 1926. So I am thinking it is original.

The only thing I did not clean as well as I would have liked was the top of the Iron. Once I discovered the Stanley stamping on it, I did not want to take a chance on having that fade. So I just went over that lightly with 400 grit and called it good. If I get bored, I might try some steel wool on it, but I also kind of like the black marks on it.

[stevekozak]

I just finished up my 5 1/4 about 45 minutes ago. It came out better than I hoped it would!

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There were a couple of scratches in the sole where the previous owner must have hit a nail. They are not horrible and do not affect the usability of it, but they were a little deeper than I cared to go.

13786

I figure I have just shy of 20 hours in it getting it cleaned up and tuned. Straightening the iron was the worst. I have over 6 hours just getting it straight before I could even start sharpening it. But once I got it square and got the angle back to 25 degrees, sharpening it was a breeze. I took the primary angle up to 4000 grit then stropped it. I put a heavy secondary angle on it by hand somewhere around 27 or 28 degrees. That I took up to 16000 grit before stropping.

I intentionally chose the piece of black walnut in the picture to test it because the grain goes every which way. It cuts like butter! Even though it is a Jack plane, I set the frog up as a smoothing plane just to see how thin I could get the shaving. I got it to consistently cut below 1/1000 of an inch. I could unroll the walnut shaving and still read a pencil mark through it!

The other thing I learned... I initially thought the Cap Iron may not have been original, but once I cleaned all the crap from the inside if it, I discovered the casting was dated 26-3. Thus, it was cast in the 3rd quarter of 1926. So I am thinking it is original.

The only thing I did not clean as well as I would have liked was the top of the Iron. Once I discovered the Stanley stamping on it, I did not want to take a chance on having that fade. So I just went over that lightly with 400 grit and called it good. If I get bored, I might try some steel wool on it, but I also kind of like the black marks on it.

Great Job!!

[Mad Trapper]

I just finished up my 5 1/4 about 45 minutes ago. It came out better than I hoped it would!

13785

There were a couple of scratches in the sole where the previous owner must have hit a nail. They are not horrible and do not affect the usability of it, but they were a little deeper than I cared to go.

13786

I figure I have just shy of 20 hours in it getting it cleaned up and tuned. Straightening the iron was the worst. I have over 6 hours just getting it straight before I could even start sharpening it. But once I got it square and got the angle back to 25 degrees, sharpening it was a breeze. I took the primary angle up to 4000 grit then stropped it. I put a heavy secondary angle on it by hand somewhere around 27 or 28 degrees. That I took up to 16000 grit before stropping.

I intentionally chose the piece of black walnut in the picture to test it because the grain goes every which way. It cuts like butter! Even though it is a Jack plane, I set the frog up as a smoothing plane just to see how thin I could get the shaving. I got it to consistently cut below 1/1000 of an inch. I could unroll the walnut shaving and still read a pencil mark through it!

The other thing I learned... I initially thought the Cap Iron may not have been original, but once I cleaned all the crap from the inside if it, I discovered the casting was dated 26-3. Thus, it was cast in the 3rd quarter of 1926. So I am thinking it is original.

The only thing I did not clean as well as I would have liked was the top of the Iron. Once I discovered the Stanley stamping on it, I did not want to take a chance on having that fade. So I just went over that lightly with 400 grit and called it good. If I get bored, I might try some steel wool on it, but I also kind of like the black marks on it.

That plane is a beauty now, you did a great job. I don't have the free time right now to do that sort of clean up.

My other planes and most of my chisels are at my other place, all old USA made steel. I'll try to get some pictures of those soon.

I have a good friend who owns a machine shop that is into old tools too. If I find a old chisel with a damaged edge he can get it back to perfect square, not screw up the temper, or grind off too much of the hard laminated steel cutting edge.

For the #8, you might try a glass shop for a piece of plate glass. They can take a broken piece and cut it down to a usable size cheaply.

edit: the plane in the pictures I posted has all the original stampings visible on the metal. Two patent stampings, one a Baileys 1857, the other Stanley Oct 21 1884. The link you posted explained how the Bailey company merged with Stanley in the 1860s.

That link also had good stuff on other hand tools. I'll have to dig out some of my saws. I've got a ton of those I've got over the years. I took the best ones and had a local sharpening service refurb/sharpen the teeth. Most cost more to sharpen than I paid for them, and now they are better than what you can buy now.

I need some more axes as I do a lot of work in the woods, have a small lumber mill, and heat with wood too. Trying to find a couple of good large ones that have not been abused. Looking for old: Plumb, Collins, True Temper, Council Tool,.......

[Inor]

Mrs Inor scores again!

I was digging through some more boxes today containing various tools that Mrs Inor picked up for me at yard sales over the years. I came across these two beauties:

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I remember when she gave them to me but had not thought about them much because I was not working on something that required a large rasp or wood file. But today I was planning my next wood project which will require quite a bit of rasp and file work so I went and dug them out. I got to looking at them more closely and discovered two remarkable things:

1 - Neither one has seen much use. The rat file was maybe used lightly 2 or 3 times. I think the rasp has never touched wood.

2 - They are both from Johnson Tool Works! If you are not a wood guy, that may not be significant to you, but Johnson files are the Rolls Royce of woodworking files and rasps. The teeth on each one are cut by hand!

Thankfully my work schedule is pretty easy this week and I should be done by mid-afternoon each day. So I will spend some time making handles for them. I think I have a short piece of 1" copper that will make a perfect barrel.

These babies are worth far more than I would pay for a file or rasp. They are strictly luxury items, but damn they are going into my normal tool rotation now!

[Sasquatch]

This one is a Stanley. I have no idea how old it is. My Grandfather gave it to my Dad and my Dad recently gave it to me. I remember using these in shop class in high school.

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[Inor]

This one is a Stanley. I have no idea how old it is. My Grandfather gave it to my Dad and my Dad recently gave it to me. I remember using these in shop class in high school.

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Get yourself a piece of float glass and some automotive sandpaper and you too, can make some awesome tool porn!

That is a beauty! (I think the link to the site I use to date Stanley planes is on the first page of this thread.)

[Sasquatch]

Get yourself a piece of float glass and some automotive sandpaper and you too, can make some awesome tool porn!

That is a beauty! (I think the link to the site I use to date Stanley planes is on the first page of this thread.)

Yes I saw that. I'm going to check it out.

My Dad also gave me my Grandfathers electric planer. Not as cool as the old school stuff but it is probably circa 80's and still in the box. I'll post when I get a chance.

[Slippy]

I just finished up my 5 1/4 about 45 minutes ago. It came out better than I hoped it would!

13785

There were a couple of scratches in the sole where the previous owner must have hit a nail. They are not horrible and do not affect the usability of it, but they were a little deeper than I cared to go.

13786

I figure I have just shy of 20 hours in it getting it cleaned up and tuned. Straightening the iron was the worst. I have over 6 hours just getting it straight before I could even start sharpening it. But once I got it square and got the angle back to 25 degrees, sharpening it was a breeze. I took the primary angle up to 4000 grit then stropped it. I put a heavy secondary angle on it by hand somewhere around 27 or 28 degrees. That I took up to 16000 grit before stropping.

I intentionally chose the piece of black walnut in the picture to test it because the grain goes every which way. It cuts like butter! Even though it is a Jack plane, I set the frog up as a smoothing plane just to see how thin I could get the shaving. I got it to consistently cut below 1/1000 of an inch. I could unroll the walnut shaving and still read a pencil mark through it!

The other thing I learned... I initially thought the Cap Iron may not have been original, but once I cleaned all the crap from the inside if it, I discovered the casting was dated 26-3. Thus, it was cast in the 3rd quarter of 1926. So I am thinking it is original.

The only thing I did not clean as well as I would have liked was the top of the Iron. Once I discovered the Stanley stamping on it, I did not want to take a chance on having that fade. So I just went over that lightly with 400 grit and called it good. If I get bored, I might try some steel wool on it, but I also kind of like the black marks on it.

Beautiful!

[Inor]

I have been spending too much time lately sitting in front of the computer doing real work, so tonight I decided to start another small plane restoration project. So I went to the magic box where I put all of the old hand planes Mrs Inor bought at garage sales and picked out a Stanley-Bailey No 8.

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This thing is an absolute beast. It is the largest hand plane Stanley made at 24 inches long and a full 3 inches wide.

This particular one is too new to be a collectable. The casting date on the frog is 4th quarter of 1959. So it was made just about the time that Stanley started to cut corners. It is still a very good plane, just not as desirable as the pre-WWII models. It does still have the Brazilian Rosewood tote and knob. I also think it is pretty cool that the sticker is still on the tote.

It was made when they were still using the old style of japaning, but the japaning is noticeably thinner than on my classic Stanleys. Also the knob on the lateral adjustment lever is still the old style that is a piece of steel that is peened into the lever rather than the new style where they just bend the end of the lever over. So it is still a damn good plane, just not a classic.

Other than some surface rust, it is in outstanding shape. Just based on the wear, I am guessing whoever owned it previously was not a real woodworker. I think they might have wanted to get into wooding and bought the plane then let it sit in the garage for 50 years. From looking at the iron, it still shows the marks from machining it at the factory, so I do not think the iron has ever even been on a sharpening stone. (The very first thing a wood guy does when he takes a new plane out of the box is spends a half day personalizing the iron and getting it razor sharp.)

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[Inor]

The other thing that leads me to believe it was hardly, if ever, used is that it came apart really easily. None of the screws were rusted in and everything just came right apart like it just came from the hardware store.

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I did not spend a whole lot of time with it tonight other than getting it disassembled. I did get the cap iron and the chip breaker cleaned and "de-rusted". The only thing I noticed is there is a bit of rust under the japaning around the mouth, a spot about 1/4 wide and 1 inch long. It is not horrible, but I think when I clean the body up the japaning around that spot will break off. Even so, I do not think I am going to go through the trouble on this one to sand blast it and re-japan it.

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I am real excited about this one because I was planning on making a new shooting board and this will be a prefect shooting plane once I get it done. The sides and bottom are absolutely perfect square and perfectly flat. So it is really just a matter of giving it a little TLC to get it cleaned up and sharpened and get it into service.

[Inor]

Tonight I got the sole cleaned up to 320 grit. There are still a couple stubborn stains that will not come out. But they will not affect performance so I am just going to leave them. They are not horrible. It is just not quite as clean as I would like.

I also decided to try a piece of the countertop from our house build for sanding the sole. I would prefer a piece of float glass, but the plane is big enough any imperfections in the countertop should not cause a problem. So far, it has worked well.

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[Inor]

I finally got it done!

I am amazed at how much the quality of Stanley tools dropped from the 1920's to 1959 on this one. You can see in the photos where the castings were not flat even after machining. I did not dare sand it much more. Also, the cutting iron was not even close to flat. As I mentioned in my first post on this one, the iron had obviously never been sharpened. It still took me over 3 hours just to flatten the back.

But I am pretty happy with how it turned out. It will never be a collector, but it will serve me well in the shop. And I am sure Mrs Inor did not even pay $5 for it, so that is even better!

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[Slippy]

I finally got it done!

I am amazed at how much the quality of Stanley tools dropped from the 1920's to 1959 on this one. You can see in the photos where the castings were not flat even after machining. I did not dare sand it much more. Also, the cutting iron was not even close to flat. As I mentioned in my first post on this one, the iron had obviously never been sharpened. It still took me over 3 hours just to flatten the back.

But I am pretty happy with how it turned out. It will never be a collector, but it will serve me well in the shop. And I am sure Mrs Inor did not even pay $5 for it, so that is even better!

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Excellent! I'm continually impressed with your skills, Inor!

Slippy Approved!

[Inor]

Here is my newest addition. A type 13 Stanley #4 smoothing plane.

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This one is not a garage sale special. I picked this one up on Flea Bay and probably spent too much for it - $40. I have not done anything to it beyond removing it from the shipping box. The only thing I did was to take the frog out to see the date stamp - 1936. I do not think anybody has done anything to it other than maybe remove some surface rust and try to sharpen the blade iron. It does not even have any marks on it from steel wool and the marks on the sole appear to be from the factory. The iron is not as sharp as I would like, so I will have to spend some time on that.

I have a couple small wood projects coming up, so I think I will try it with just a good coat of wax and a sharp iron. I will probably put some sweat into bringing the sole and sides up to 600 grit eventually. But that can wait for a little while. Overall, it will make a nice addition to my classic hand plane collection.

[Big Ken]

I was at a thrift store today and they had a plane, I remembered this thread but couldn't remember if the name was one that was mentioned here, so I had to look here again to see if it was one of them, it was a bailey, it seemed kinda of short like the one above, I should have taken a picture, they wanted $13.00, kind of thinking I should have bought it.

[Inor]

I was at a thrift store today and they had a plane, I remembered this thread but couldn't remember if the name was one that was mentioned here, so I had to look here again to see if it was one of them, it was a bailey, it seemed kinda of short like the one above, I should have taken a picture, they wanted $13.00, kind of thinking I should have bought it.

Bailey is a model of Stanley plane. All 3 of the planes I posted about in this thread are Stanley Baileys.

I have always had a couple planes that I kept around the shop for use on projects. But since I started restoring the ones in this thread (with several more to come), it is becoming an addiction! I am using them more and more on projects and enjoying my wood time more than I ever have.

[Big Ken]

Bailey is a model of Stanley plane. All 3 of the planes I posted about in this thread are Stanley Baileys.

I have always had a couple planes that I kept around the shop for use on projects. But since I started restoring the ones in this thread (with several more to come), it is becoming an addiction! I am using them more and more on projects and enjoying my wood time more than I ever have.

I trying to remember but didn't see Stanley on it, Made In USA, Baily, damn should have taken a pic, is it worth picking up for collecting? I'll never use it but it looked cool.

[Inor]

I trying to remember but didn't see Stanley on it, Made In USA, Baily, damn should have taken a pic, is it worth picking up for collecting? I'll never use it but it looked cool.

For $13 dollars? Definitely worth picking up.

They do not always say Stanley on them. The 5 1/4 that I posted first in this thread does not say Stanley on it.

Okay, now you got me going... :biglaugh: I normally do not keep tools strictly for their collector value. I love old hand tools, but I want to use them as well as have them. But of course there are exceptions.

16885

This one is a Stanley Bailey Number 3 smoothing plane. It was made some time in the mid 1880's. They called it a "transition plane" because cabinet and furniture makers at the time did not want metal planes. They thought all planes had to be made of wood. As collectable planes go, it is not worth a whole lot, maybe $100-$200. But I keep it just because I think it is cool. It stays in my shop. I have used it a couple times just because... But mostly it is there just to look slick.

Then we have the Holy Grail of hand planes:

16886

It is a Stanley Number 1. Stanley Number 1's are extremely rare and even a crappy one from the 1930's is worth more than $1500. (They quit making them when WWII started and most of the ones in existence at the time were melted down for the war effort. That is why they are so rare.)

The one in the photo is the rarest of the rare... It is from the first run of Stanley Number 1's created between 1865 and 1868. It has only light surface rust and no pitting and everything on it is original. I have no idea what it is worth, but it is a LOT. Mrs Inor bought it at a garage sale, so she paid next to nothing for it. It now lives in glass in our living room. I have not even worked up the courage to take a Scotchbrite to it to shine it up for fear of ruining it.

[Big Ken]

Well I never said I was the sharpest knife in the drawer, I went back and it is a Miller, since I drove back I still bought it and it still looks cool, best thing is it went down to 9.99, my wife said you'll never use it! I said you know people who have lawn art, this is going in my garage art.

168911689216893
1689416895

[Inor]

Well I never said I was the sharpest knife in the drawer, I went back and it is a Miller, since I drove back I still bought it and it still looks cool, best thing is it went down to 9.99, my wife said you'll never use it! I said you know people who have lawn art, this is going in my garage art.

168911689216893
1689416895

Miller's Falls are good tools. I cannot tell for sure by the photos, but it looks like you got a #3 or #4 smoothing plane.

Take it apart and shine it up! Clean the brass with Brasso. You will have a damn nice tool! (By the way, the brass knob for advancing the blade is threaded with reverse threads. That could give you fits taking it apart if you are not paying attention. :biglaugh:)

[Big Ken]

Miller's Falls are good tools. I cannot tell for sure by the photos, but it looks like you got a #3 or #4 smoothing plane.

Take it apart and shine it up! Clean the brass with Brasso. You will have a damn nice tool! (By the way, the brass knob for advancing the blade is threaded with reverse threads. That could give you fits taking it apart if you are not paying attention. :biglaugh:)

What will tell what number it is, the length?

I tried google, it's going to take some time figuring it out.

I found on the handle - NO.900

ebay has prices all over place, nothing expensive.

[Mad Trapper]

Well I never said I was the sharpest knife in the drawer, I went back and it is a Miller, since I drove back I still bought it and it still looks cool, best thing is it went down to 9.99, my wife said you'll never use it! I said you know people who have lawn art, this is going in my garage art.

168911689216893
1689416895


Ken handy to have a plane, and $10 is a bargain

Millers were excellent quality tools. They made some of the best drill bits and tap and dies ever made in USA. If you see their stuff at a garage sale, buy it. I have one of their boring machines, for timber framing.

My old farmhouse when the humidity gets up, the doors start sticking in the jambs. A swipe or two with a plane on the high spots and all is good again.

[Mad Trapper]

I was going through old pictures.....found one of my best crosscut.

I've got a bunch more saws, logging and carpentry (old Disstons), working/restored. Will get you more/better pictures. Saw in picture is on the wall, but it's sharp and been put in big wood.

16953

[Mad Trapper]

I was in the drawer where some of my timberframing stuff is.

The slick is a Hubbard from New Haven Ct.

The framing chisel is marked 1832 but can't make out the maker?

Dividers are for layout.

I got the bits back for my boring machine and a set of sheaths for the chisels, they are good as new now!

I need to dig out the boring machine, stole a picture of one like mine, a "Boss". Two gear ratios for hard/soft wood and/or big/small bits.


17161

17162

17163

[Inor]

I was in the drawer where some of my timberframing stuff is.

The slick is a Hubbard from New Haven Ct.

The framing chisel is marked 1832 but can't make out the maker?

Dividers are for layout.

I got the bits back for my boring machine and a set of sheaths for the chisels, they are good as new now!

I need to dig out the boring machine, stole a picture of one like mine, a "Boss". Two gear ratios for hard/soft wood and/or big/small bits.


17161

17162

17163

Those are awesome! Especially the chisels! Damn near 200 years old and they look new, that is incredible! Are those the ones you used for your wood rack?

The bits too! I have a box with maybe 150 bits for hand braces. I have not used them for years but I do need to dig them out and clean them up.

I am just finishing up a furniture project for Mrs Inor but then I am going to start working on a set of handmade joinery saws for myself. I am starting with a dovetail saw but then I am going to make 2 tenon saw as well. When I get to working on those, I'll post some photos.

[Inor]

What will tell what number it is, the length?

I tried google, it's going to take some time figuring it out.

I found on the handle - NO.900

ebay has prices all over place, nothing expensive.

It is usually cast right next to the front knob or on the very back behind the tote. If it is not, just measure the length and width. We can tell from that.

[Sasquatch]

I mentioned this one a while back. Not really an antique but it is old since its from 1983.

This was my grandfathers. Probably bought it at Sears. Before he passed he gave it to my Dad who gave it to me a few months ago.

17766

[Inor]

I mentioned this one a while back. Not really an antique but it is old since its from 1983.

This was my grandfathers. Probably bought it at Sears. Before he passed he gave it to my Dad who gave it to me a few months ago.

17766

Have you tried it yet?

I have never used a power hand-planer. My good friend Harold had one and he loved it. He used it for making the curved tops on steamer trunks.

[BucketBack]

Those are awesome! Especially the chisels! Damn near 200 years old and they look new, that is incredible! Are those the ones you used for your wood rack?

The bits too! I have a box with maybe 150 bits for hand braces. I have not used them for years but I do need to dig them out and clean them up.

I am just finishing up a furniture project for Mrs Inor but then I am going to start working on a set of handmade joinery saws for myself. I am starting with a dovetail saw but then I am going to make 2 tenon saw as well. When I get to working on those, I'll post some photos.

The paring chisel in the first pic has leather on the handle to absorb a wood mallets blows.

I have my Gramps Wood Union Toolbox from when he worked at the Penstar place. Lots of Lufkin and Starrett stuff.

[KnuteFartne]

Have you tried it yet?

I have never used a power hand-planer. My good friend Harold had one and he loved it. He used it for making the curved tops on steamer trunks.Not yet. I really need to.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[BucketBack]

I've used power planers to build wood models and to strip off gelcoat on a hull aka AquaHull Boat Repair.

[Inor]

Not yet. I really need to.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I got "a thing" for planes (obviously). I love using them; I love restoring them; I love having them... Hell, sometimes I just like to look at them.

Lately, I have been doing all my edge joinery using the Stanley #8 pictured earlier in this thread. I have not used my jointer since I restored the Stanley #8. When I clean up from my current project (a new router table) I think I am going to disassemble my jointer and put it in storage to see if I even miss it. If not, in a year or so I may just sell it and get some more space in my shop.

So yes, spend a few bucks on some lumber to throw away and play with the planer for a day or two. See what it can do and get a feel for it. (Then report back of course.)

[Sasquatch]

I got "a thing" for planes (obviously). I love using them; I love restoring them; I love having them... Hell, sometimes I just like to look at them.

Lately, I have been doing all my edge joinery using the Stanley #8 pictured earlier in this thread. I have not used my jointer since I restored the Stanley #8. When I clean up from my current project (a new router table) I think I am going to disassemble my jointer and put it in storage to see if I even miss it. If not, in a year or so I may just sell it and get some more space in my shop.

So yes, spend a few bucks on some lumber to throw away and play with the planer for a day or two. See what it can do and get a feel for it. (Then report back of course.)

Spend a few bucks? I have so much scrap from other projects my shop is bursting at the seams.

[Mad Trapper]

Hit an ongoing/weekend barn/estate sale last two weekends, 4H farm auction last weekend. Maybe we need a thread called "OTP pickers"?

At the barn sale got a bunch of old USA made hand tools: pitch fork, manure fork, potato fork, 2 wooden D-handle flat shovels (for snow), 2 heavy steel pry/digging bars, bunch steel and plastic wedges for splitting/felling trees, 4 portable sawhorse leg sets ( 2 take a 2 X 4 or 2 X 6 piece to make a horse), nearly new scythe, and interesting small hand crosscut saw I'll restore. A whole bunch of isopropyl dry gas ($3 each now) and 2 windex refills, an orchard ladder, and Tecomec chainsaw chain grinder. All the hand tools are old quailty USA made, will get used. Not everything made the pictures.

Most of this is not too interesting for this old tool thread except the saw and ladder.

The hand saw looks like an old Diston carpenter saw, but has teeth and rakers like a two man lumber saw. Never seen this type of teeth in a carpenter style saw. Handle is nice with original brass hardware. I'm going to clean up, restore and sharpen this. I have files and point sets to do the sharpening. It will replace the small bow saw I have by the woodstoves for the pieces that are just a bit too long. It's still dirty/dusty but no pitting and can't make out any markings on the blade.

18586

I have an orchard with a few pretty big/old trees. Regular ladders are a PITA to put up into the tree for pruning or picking, and much less stable base. I finally found a real orchard ladder, it's old and needs some work but it will get put into service picking this fall. Picture has it folded in half, with pointed top almost touching the ground. The ladder can be used with the top extended or folded, the wide base makes it hard to tip over. Might even be good for cleaning out eaves throughs? It needs some work on the wooden legs but is worth fixing.

18587

I'll come back to this when I've done some R + R on the saw and ladder. I also got a quality Italian made Tecomec chainsaw chain sharpener. I've got $60 into the whole lot.

How did I do?

18588

18589

[Inor]

Hit an ongoing/weekend barn/estate sale last two weekends, 4H farm auction last weekend. Maybe we need a thread called "OTP pickers"?

At the barn sale got a bunch of old USA made hand tools: pitch fork, manure fork, potato fork, 2 wooden D-handle flat shovels (for snow), 2 heavy steel pry/digging bars, bunch steel and plastic wedges for splitting/felling trees, 4 portable sawhorse leg sets ( 2 take a 2 X 4 or 2 X 6 piece to make a horse), nearly new scythe, and interesting small hand crosscut saw I'll restore. A whole bunch of isopropyl dry gas ($3 each now) and 2 windex refills, an orchard ladder, and Tecomec chainsaw chain grinder. All the hand tools are old quailty USA made, will get used. Not everything made the pictures.

Most of this is not too interesting for this old tool thread except the saw and ladder.

The hand saw looks like an old Diston carpenter saw, but has teeth and rakers like a two man lumber saw. Never seen this type of teeth in a carpenter style saw. Handle is nice with original brass hardware. I'm going to clean up, restore and sharpen this. I have files and point sets to do the sharpening. It will replace the small bow saw I have by the woodstoves for the pieces that are just a bit too long. It's still dirty/dusty but no pitting and can't make out any markings on the blade.

18586

I have an orchard with a few pretty big/old trees. Regular ladders are a PITA to put up into the tree for pruning or picking, and much less stable base. I finally found a real orchard ladder, it's old and needs some work but it will get put into service picking this fall. Picture has it folded in half, with pointed top almost touching the ground. The ladder can be used with the top extended or folded, the wide base makes it hard to tip over. Might even be good for cleaning out eaves throughs? It needs some work on the wooden legs but is worth fixing.

18587

I'll come back to this when I've done some R + R on the saw and ladder. I also got a quality Italian made Tecomec chainsaw chain sharpener. I've got $60 into the whole lot.

How did I do?

18588

18589

NICE find!!!

If that saw is a real Diston, it alone will be worth multiples more than what you paid for the whole load once restored! Old Diston saws are worth a fortune! It is hard to tell from the photo, but if I had to guess from the cut of the teeth, it looks to me like it was originally for joinery on logs or large timbers? That is freakin' awesome!

[Big Ken]

Double tap.

[Big Ken]

NICE find!!!

If that saw is a real Diston, it alone will be worth multiples more than what you paid for the whole load once restored! awesome!

Hmm, now I'll be looking for saws.

My son is into wood working, he enjoys collecting older wood tools, I also enjoy looking for him, I'm meeting him tomorrow to give him my latest finds, he may want a couple or all, what he doesn't take I'll put back in the garage, one can never have enough tools.

18590

[Mad Trapper]

Thanks Inor.

I don't think the saw is a Diston as it does not have the brass inlay with the Diston logo, I've a bunch of old Distons both cleaned up/restored and some still in the rough/barn condition. I'll take some scotchbrite and diesel to the blade and see if it has any engravings/writing. Tooth pattern is what they call Champion when found on logging saws.

The ladder will never be perfect, just a handy worker. It has a sturdy repair using metal where the outer legs connect to the main rails, which had cracked. The outer legs are not original, I might use them this fall but I can make better replacements. They do not connect the wide bottom rung well and it's a weak spot. I'm thinking about woods to use, if I can get some white ash that is still soild (EAB has killed most trees here) that might work great. Light and strong. I'll have to research what was used in ladders?

[SOCOM42]

Hmm, now I'll be looking for saws.

My son is into wood working, he enjoys collecting older wood tools, I also enjoy looking for him, I'm meeting him tomorrow to give him my latest finds, he may want a couple or all, what he doesn't take I'll put back in the garage, one can never have enough tools.

18590

I have a exact set of those wooden clamps, father had them, they work great.

[Inor]

Hmm, now I'll be looking for saws.

My son is into wood working, he enjoys collecting older wood tools, I also enjoy looking for him, I'm meeting him tomorrow to give him my latest finds, he may want a couple or all, what he doesn't take I'll put back in the garage, one can never have enough tools.

18590

Before you go crazy buying old handsaws, check prices and brands on Fleabay. Distons and a few others are worth a lot. Some others, equally good and equally interesting, in my arrogant opinion, are not worth much on the resale market.

Just stay FAR away from the newer Stanleys and Crapsman and others when they started hardening the teeth. Look at the teeth closely. If you can see colors running from the teeth from being hardened do not buy it no matter how good it looks. Hardened teeth cannot be sharpened. It is basically a throw-away saw. When it becomes dull, all you can do is toss it in the garbage.

Conversely, I do occasionally buy old handsaws that are not worth much if the price is right. The spring steel used for the blades basically has not changed much in over 100 years. So if I find an old beat up saw, I will pay $2-$3 for it just for the steel if I am looking to make a new saw for myself and the blade can be recut up to fit the style saw I want.

[Inor]

I picked this old boy up at a yard sale a couple weeks ago for 50 cents.

18593

18594

Obviously, it does not have any life left in it. Even sitting on a shelf in the living room as a conversation piece I doubt it will last more than a year or two before it just falls apart. But I wanted it to be able to get the measurements from it to make my own. I have an old Stanley "coffin plane" that is the transitional style (wooden body and cast iron pieces for holding the iron and chip breaker) made in the 1880's, but it is too cool and in too good of shape to continue to use it on projects. So I want to use the one pictured as a pattern to make a new one for normal use and then I can retire my Stanley to a place of honor in the house.

(Hand tool woodworking is a definite subculture within the woodworking world. The guys that make their own hand tools is more of a cult in the hand tool subculture. I am pretty sure that following this path to its logical conclusion will end in madness. But it is fun and rewarding.)

[TJC44]

I picked this old boy up at a yard sale a couple weeks ago for 50 cents.

18593

18594

Obviously, it does not have any life left in it. Even sitting on a shelf in the living room as a conversation piece I doubt it will last more than a year or two before it just falls apart. But I wanted it to be able to get the measurements from it to make my own. I have an old Stanley "coffin plane" that is the transitional style (wooden body and cast iron pieces for holding the iron and chip breaker) made in the 1880's, but it is too cool and in too good of shape to continue to use it on projects. So I want to use the one pictured as a pattern to make a new one for normal use and then I can retire my Stanley to a place of honor in the house.

(Hand tool woodworking is a definite subculture within the woodworking world. The guys that make their own hand tools is more of a cult in the hand tool subculture. I am pretty sure that following this path to its logical conclusion will end in madness. But it is fun and rewarding.)

Damn, Inor, who did you buy it from, Fred Flintstone?

[MoreAmmoOK]

Working with hand tools takes dedication to practice and develop the skills necessary. Practice will give you the ability to produce almost as fast as using the "brute force" of power tools. Skills that have almost been lost are described in the links below.
https://sawmillcreek.org/forumdisplay.php?4-Neanderthal-Haven
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/index.html

[Inor]

Damn, Inor, who did you buy it from, Fred Flintstone?

Pretty close. The estate of a good ol' boy down the road. I think he was 93 when he died last winter.

[Big Ken]

I picked this old boy up at a yard sale a couple weeks ago for 50 cents.

18593

18594

Obviously, it does not have any life left in it. Even sitting on a shelf in the living room as a conversation piece I doubt it will last more than a year or two before it just falls apart. But I wanted it to be able to get the measurements from it to make my own. I have an old Stanley "coffin plane" that is the transitional style (wooden body and cast iron pieces for holding the iron and chip breaker) made in the 1880's, but it is too cool and in too good of shape to continue to use it on projects. So I want to use the one pictured as a pattern to make a new one for normal use and then I can retire my Stanley to a place of honor in the house.

(Hand tool woodworking is a definite subculture within the woodworking world. The guys that make their own hand tools is more of a cult in the hand tool subculture. I am pretty sure that following this path to its logical conclusion will end in madness. But it is fun and rewarding.)

It looks awesome.

[Slippy]

That is very cool, Inor!

[Mad Trapper]

NICE find!!!

If that saw is a real Diston, it alone will be worth multiples more than what you paid for the whole load once restored! Old Diston saws are worth a fortune! It is hard to tell from the photo, but if I had to guess from the cut of the teeth, it looks to me like it was originally for joinery on logs or large timbers? That is freakin' awesome!

Found someone/internet who seems to have same saw, his is marked: 24" blade E.C. Atkins no.40 tuttle tooth pruner, new in wrapper!

18622

18623

[Inor]

About a month ago, I stumbled across this old Number 5 hand plane. I thought it was a Stanley Bailey when I bought it. But once I got it apart and started looking close, it was pretty obvious that it was not a Stanley, but just had a Stanley lever cap. That is not a big deal to me since the price was right and my intent was always to put it back into service, not let it collect dust on a shelf somewhere. But it does mean that it will never be a "collector plane".

27856

The bed does have "Made in the U.S.A." cast into it. The bottom of the frog has a 1947 stamped into it in about the same location would have the forge date cast on a Stanley. So I am assuming it is a 1947- something?

The blade and chip breaker were in in pretty tough shape so I ordered a new after-market blade and chip breaker from Hock. I have been meaning to try the Hock blades in some of my other planes for a while, but all my other planes are classic Stanleys with all original parts. So I did not want to "Franken-plane" them with after-market parts. The new blade is 50% thicker than the original blade and is made from sold A2 steel, rather than just a back strap of A2 forged to something cheaper like on the Stanleys.

27857

As you can see in the first photo, the original handle had been broken and a previous owner had glued it, maybe a couple of times. Since I do not think it was Brazilian Rosewood anyway, I decided to make a new handle and knob from Mesquite. I'm pretty happy with how the Mesquite looks. (Brazilian Rosewood is illegal to import anymore thanks to the green-tards but the Mesquite does have some of the same grain patterns.)

It took a LOT of hand lapping to get the bottom and sides square and pretty close to a mirror finish. You can still see a little bit of patina in one low spot on the bottom. But that is well away from mouth, so it will not affect the function of the tool. There are also low spots about 1/2 inch from the heel and toe on each side, but those are also minor and should not affect the function.

27858

All in all, I am dang happy with how it turned out, even if it is just a Franken-plane. It should service me well through the rest of my woodworking life.

[1skrewsloose]

I almost feel sorry for the young folk that have never swung an axe, used a bow saw, never used anything that required manual labor. How do those kids expect to live when, not if, the grid goes down. They'll be thinking maybe I should have paid attention when dad went hunting, to cut wood or even went fishing. Sucks to be them.

[StratBastard]

About a month ago, I stumbled across this old Number 5 hand plane. I thought it was a Stanley Bailey when I bought it. But once I got it apart and started looking close, it was pretty obvious that it was not a Stanley, but just had a Stanley lever cap. That is not a big deal to me since the price was right and my intent was always to put it back into service, not let it collect dust on a shelf somewhere. But it does mean that it will never be a "collector plane".

27856

The bed does have "Made in the U.S.A." cast into it. The bottom of the frog has a 1947 stamped into it in about the same location would have the forge date cast on a Stanley. So I am assuming it is a 1947- something?

The blade and chip breaker were in in pretty tough shape so I ordered a new after-market blade and chip breaker from Hock. I have been meaning to try the Hock blades in some of my other planes for a while, but all my other planes are classic Stanleys with all original parts. So I did not want to "Franken-plane" them with after-market parts. The new blade is 50% thicker than the original blade and is made from sold A2 steel, rather than just a back strap of A2 forged to something cheaper like on the Stanleys.

27857

As you can see in the first photo, the original handle had been broken and a previous owner had glued it, maybe a couple of times. Since I do not think it was Brazilian Rosewood anyway, I decided to make a new handle and knob from Mesquite. I'm pretty happy with how the Mesquite looks. (Brazilian Rosewood is illegal to import anymore thanks to the green-tards but the Mesquite does have some of the same grain patterns.)

It took a LOT of hand lapping to get the bottom and sides square and pretty close to a mirror finish. You can still see a little bit of patina in one low spot on the bottom. But that is well away from mouth, so it will not affect the function of the tool. There are also low spots about 1/2 inch from the heel and toe on each side, but those are also minor and should not affect the function.

27858

All in all, I am dang happy with how it turned out, even if it is just a Franken-plane. It should service me well through the rest of my woodworking life.

The handle and knob are beauties! Good work!

[Inor]

The handle and knob are beauties! Good work!

Thanks!

[Big Ken]

plane

Earlier in this thread I posted that my son was into planes and I picked up a couple, then I started getting more when I thought it was a decent buy, now he says he has enough but now I still pick them up and any old tools for my garage, I have no rhyme or reason it's just if it's different and priced reasonable, well this time I picked up a Power Kraft plane and a couple other things? small planes I think? the only reason is I've never seen one with what I think is bakelite for handles? oh and new in the box, paid $20 for all three, hope I did okay? just wondering also if bakelite is common?

https://i.imgur.com/NDTYiVZ.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/5t9piwL.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/SdyQkMA.jpeg

[Mad Trapper]

Pig scraper. For removing hair when butchering a pig.

29189

[Sasquatch]

Pig scraper. For removing hair when butchering a pig.

29189

Ya don't see that everyday. Call Nancy Piglosi over and see if it works.

[Mad Trapper]

Ya don't see that everyday. Call Nancy Piglosi over and see if it works.

Pelousey's collect hammers.

[T-Man 1066]

Pelousey's collect hammers.

You hit it right on the head MT!!! :redhammer: :smashfreak:

[1skrewsloose]

Pig scraper. For removing hair when butchering a pig.

29189
Never used those, seems like a lot of work. Always skinned them out.

[Mad Trapper]

A friend was telling me he just got a carpenter's compass. So I dug out another one of mine and some framing chisels (some need cleanup).


30831

30832

Then I asked him if he knew how to use a compass? Everything was based on radius of circles and simple geometry. Old timberframes had these circles scirbed into one or more of the beams to serve as a reference for both building and if repairs were ever needed. What looks like the "Star of David" was laid out using these circles and served for squaring both the ends and sides of a timber.

I got taught in traditional timberframe layout by an old master, Richard "Dick Babcock. Don't need a square or a ruler and more accurate; plumbbob, chalkline, and level...and can work with irregular timbers.

Post and tie beam

30833

A 1:1:Root 2 (45, 45, 90 degree) Knee brace

30834

Shouldered mortise and tennon

30835

[Mad Trapper]

Sorry don't have a picture yet. I just got an old scythe for free. Wood is solid but needs sanding and a few coats of marine spar. Blade in good shape but needs rust removed and sharpening.

Anybody ever use these? I've got another one that is beautiful and if you know how to use it makes quick work of grass and weeds, even chest high golden rods.

It is missing one of the handles. I'm trying to figure out the best way to make one up? I just want to use it, don't need to be pretty.

They are faster than string trimmers in big stuff.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GRZELEHr8Xw&t=84s

[Inor]

Sorry don't have a picture yet. I just got an old scythe for free. Wood is solid but needs sanding and a few coats of marine spar. Blade in good shape but needs rust removed and sharpening.

Anybody ever use these? I've got another one that is beautiful and if you know how to use it makes quick work of grass and weeds, even chest high golden rods.

It is missing one of the handles. I'm trying to figure out the best way to make one up? I just want to use it, don't need to be pretty.

They are faster than string trimmers in big stuff.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GRZELEHr8Xw&t=84s

If you have a drillpress, you can use it as a vertical lathe if necessary. If you do not have lathe chisels, a rasp also works for shaping it. I figure, in a pinch, you could even use an electric drill mounted in a vice as long as you do not get too crazy with it.

Good find! I am anxious to see the pictures!

[Mad Trapper]

If you have a drillpress, you can use it as a vertical lathe if necessary. If you do not have lathe chisels, a rasp also works for shaping it. I figure, in a pinch, you could even use an electric drill mounted in a vice as long as you do not get too crazy with it.

Good find! I am anxious to see the pictures!

Thanks @Inor. I'm short on powered woodworking tools. I could start with a dowel or even split down a piece of ash hardwood. I have rasps, draw files, chisels, drills.

Spindle I made for a bow drill, from a log

31509

I'm trying to figure out how to make the clamp assy for the handle? Need to take apart to see proper design.

I'll post pictures of what I'm fixing, along with my father's old nice one, hand sickle too. That one will get used today, it don't spray shit all over me like my string trimmer does. Don't need fuel mix and a file/stone renews the blade.

Here is a pic I found.

31508

[Inor]

Thanks @Inor. I'm short on powered woodworking tools. I could start with a dowel or even split down a piece of ash hardwood. I have rasps, draw files, chisels, drills.

Spindle I made for a bow drill, from a log

31509

I'm trying to figure out how to make the clamp assy for the handle? Need to take apart to see proper design.

I'll post pictures of what I'm fixing, along with my father's old nice one, hand sickle too. That one will get used today, it don't spray shit all over me like my string trimmer does. Don't need fuel mix and a file/stone renews the blade.

Here is a pic I found.

31508

Although I have not tried it myself yet, you could even try rigging up an old-school pole lathe.

https://www.treetotreen.com/the-pole-lathe/

If you are okay with it not being "perfectly" round, I would just use a draw knife to rough it out, then clean it up with rasps.