Broken tie rod - Kubota tractor

[Box of frogs]

Because I like to treat my tractor like it was a bulldozer sometimes I break stuff.
https://i.imgur.com/IySStXW.jpg

Last year I blew the seals in the bucket cylinders, today I snap a tie rod like a twig.
In my defense, these tie rods look under sized to me but I’m no engineer.

I’ll order the part tomorrow and hopefully I will be up and running again next weekend.
The job looks straight forward enough and I have done tie rods on a dodge before. I’ll post some pictures of the job when I get into the guts of it next week.

I found a decent place in Alabama (BESHEARS) that has everything Kubota!
I have a new rim assembly and tire ordered through them already. I’ll just add another part to the tally.

BoF

[Box of frogs]

Maybe some techie mod can fix the pic.
I can never get that shit right
Thanks - BoF

[Sparkyprep]

Box of Frogs- How do you like your Kubota tractor? I am batting around the idea of buying a new L3902. Would really like some real-world input on the durability and power of these tractors. (I know you broke a tie rod, but I consider that normal if you abuse it.) Any thoughts?

[SOCOM42]

Because I like to treat my tractor like it was a bulldozer sometimes I break stuff.
https://i.imgur.com/IySStXW.jpg

Last year I blew the seals in the bucket cylinders, today I snap a tie rod like a twig.
In my defense, these tie rods look under sized to me but I’m no engineer.

I’ll order the part tomorrow and hopefully I will be up and running again next weekend.
The job looks straight forward enough and I have done tie rods on a dodge before. I’ll post some pictures of the job when I get into the guts of it next week.


BoF


Yup you do look like you beat on it.

IF it were mine it would have been MIG welded real quick in the shop, with a 4150 rib attached.

That thing is real long and thin from what I see, it should have bent before snapping.

The thing may have had a piss poor heat treatment job on it, or it is a cheap casting.

You must have really jammed the wheels together real hard.

[Box of frogs]

Yup you do look like you beat on it.

IF it were mine it would have been MIG welded real quick in the shop, with a 4150 rib attached.

That thing is real long and thin from what I see, it should have bent before snapping.

The thing may have had a piss poor heat treatment job on it, or it is a cheap casting.

You must have really jammed the wheels together real hard.

I think its a undersized part for the tractor - I was pushing over some trees and bush hogging.
I had the bucket too high on one particular tree about 3" in diameter and the weight of the tractor was all pressed down on the tree and the tie rod. Totally my fault. Should have come in lower with the bucket and held the trunk to the ground till the front axle passed over.

BoF

[Box of frogs]

check your PM inbox

BoF


Box of Frogs- How do you like your Kubota tractor? I am batting around the idea of buying a new L3902. Would really like some real-world input on the durability and power of these tractors. (I know you broke a tie rod, but I consider that normal if you abuse it.) Any thoughts?

[Box of frogs]

Part ordered today. I had to sit down for this one 460.00 for the complete assembly.
OUCH !!!

Took the broken pieces off after work.
About 25 minutes time and it was done
15 minutes of that was getting the carter pins out of the crown nuts (not sure if that’s the correct term)
The pin heads were buried and facing away from me.
Need a 22mm wrench, dikes, small screwdriver to start the pins out, small hammer to gently tap the tie rod out of the housing.
Keep the broken ends and count the exposed threads on the adjustment connection so your alignment will be the same in the new piece.
I used the bucket to lift the front axle enough to hand turn the effected tire so I could get to the nuts easier.
BoF
19313
19314
19315

[SOCOM42]

Part ordered today. I had to sit down for this one 460.00 for the complete assembly.
OUCH !!!

Took the broken pieces off after work.
About 25 minutes time and it was done
15 minutes of that was getting the carter pins out of the crown nuts (not sure if that’s the correct term)
The pin heads were buried and facing away from me.
Need a 22mm wrench, dikes, small screwdriver to start the pins out, small hammer to gently tap the tie rod out of the housing.
Keep the broken ends and count the exposed threads on the adjustment connection so your alignment will be the same in the new piece.
I used the bucket to lift the front axle enough to hand turn the effected tire so I could get to the nuts easier.
BoF
19313
19314
19315

Cotter pins and castle nuts.

There is a fork for removing the ball joints, works like a wedge.

I have three different sizes, have had them for 50 years.

You were lucky to get them off without one, not so easy on a truck or car.

[Box of frogs]

Cotter pins and castle nuts.

There is a fork for removing the ball joints, works like a wedge.

I didn’t have a pickle fork for popping out the ends.
Fortunately they came out easy enough.

BoF

[SOCOM42]

I will tell you a small story.

During my first week in sunny California in 1965,

I had just got off a freeway and stopped at the traffic light at the bottom of the ramp.

Light turned green and I proceeded to turn left while starting to move.

All of a sudden I had no steering!!!!!!!

Got out looked underneath, the pitman arm had broke in half!!!!!

Had it been a few minutes earlier I would have been doing 55 plus with NO STEERING AT ALL!!!

Found a pay phone and called a Ford dealer nearby, told him the problem, did I buy the car from them? no.

Told me to take it to the dealer I got it from, I told him that would be impossible, why he asked, they are in Massachusetts.

He said, OH, OK take it to him, it was towed there.

The car was only 3 months old at the time, under warranty.

The lord must have been looking out for me that day, again.


The car was a Galaxy 500, with a 406 engine with dual quads from the factory, four speed tranny.

Replaced the factory shifter with a Mickey Thompson speed shifter.

Had torsion bars installed that I had made.

[T-Man 1066]

Similar story. '78 Ranchero, swapped in a 351 Cleveland with some mods, was doing a bonzai run, about 120 through the country, came into town, slowed down to 30, and about a mile later, the left side outer tie rod just fell out of the ball socket. Worn out. It lurched left, I went across traffic into a parking lot. Pushed it back into the ball, tied a coat hanger around it, and got back to my shop where I could replace it. Had it done that about 10 miles earlier, probably wouldn't be a T-Man today. Proof that God is real!

[Slippy]

Excellent job BOF!

This time of year, can't afford for the tractor to go down.


Part ordered today. I had to sit down for this one 460.00 for the complete assembly.
OUCH !!!

Took the broken pieces off after work.
About 25 minutes time and it was done
15 minutes of that was getting the carter pins out of the crown nuts (not sure if that’s the correct term)
The pin heads were buried and facing away from me.
Need a 22mm wrench, dikes, small screwdriver to start the pins out, small hammer to gently tap the tie rod out of the housing.
Keep the broken ends and count the exposed threads on the adjustment connection so your alignment will be the same in the new piece.
I used the bucket to lift the front axle enough to hand turn the effected tire so I could get to the nuts easier.
BoF
19313
19314
19315

[SOCOM42]

Similar story. '78 Ranchero, swapped in a 351 Cleveland with some mods, was doing a bonzai run, about 120 through the country, came into town, slowed down to 30, and about a mile later, the left side outer tie rod just fell out of the ball socket. Worn out. It lurched left, I went across traffic into a parking lot. Pushed it back into the ball, tied a coat hanger around it, and got back to my shop where I could replace it. Had it done that about 10 miles earlier, probably wouldn't be a T-Man today. Proof that God is real!

I am glad that someone else can relate to the subject.

I have to replace a tie rod end in the next month or so, not worn though,

nut is rotted, can't get that alone, besides whole unit is cheap enough.

Everything gets greased @ about 2,000 miles, now going down to 1,000 because we are hardly driving anywhere.


Added;

I don't want to think about that breaking when I was crossing the dessert at night @ about 120 MPH!

[White Shadow]

Similar story. '78 Ranchero, swapped in a 351 Cleveland with some mods, was doing a bonzai run, about 120 through the country, came into town, slowed down to 30, and about a mile later, the left side outer tie rod just fell out of the ball socket. Worn out. It lurched left, I went across traffic into a parking lot. Pushed it back into the ball, tied a coat hanger around it, and got back to my shop where I could replace it. Had it done that about 10 miles earlier, probably wouldn't be a T-Man today. Proof that God is real!


351C! That was a nice engine. I had a one of those in a '73 Mustang. Right after I got it I was doing about 40 one night and had my right rear wheel pass me, take a right turn across three other lanes of traffic and stop neatly in a parking spot at the Circle K. It had sheared off the studs and dropped onto the brake drum after the wheel departed. Cut a nice groove in the road, but drove nicely. Pulled into a parking lot, threw the wheel in the trunk, and walked home. Small town so no point in trying to do anything with it until morning.

[T-Man 1066]

Being in the rust belt is hard on vehicles. When I drove older cars and trucks, my nemesis was brake lines. They usually rot through under the clamps since salt works its way in there and doesn't get removed when you wash the vehicle.

And I learned that when you blow a line or 2, just put all new brake lines in, or they will continue to break through. I used to keep a 50' coil of hard line and bulk fittings when I drove old junk...

[SOCOM42]

351C! That was a nice engine. I had a one of those in a '73 Mustang. Right after I got it I was doing about 40 one night and had my right rear wheel pass me, take a right turn across three other lanes of traffic and stop neatly in a parking spot at the Circle K. It had sheared off the studs and dropped onto the brake drum after the wheel departed. Cut a nice groove in the road, but drove nicely. Pulled into a parking lot, threw the wheel in the trunk, and walked home. Small town so no point in trying to do anything with it until morning.

I had a Bronco with a 351 C in it.

One day in heavy traffic at an intersection, I dropped the rear driveshaft, was in 2 wheel drive.

Had to gut out turn on the hubs and crawl under and detach the rear end of the shaft.

Let me tell you, there were some really pissed off drivers,

assholes could not understand it was not my fault or me being stupid.

Got on radio and called my brother, he had a replacement ready to go when I got there.

Like the Jeeps 4WD on the fly, both of mine have it, one locks up the differentials.


Note; had a commercially assigned VHF frequency for communication,

had two trucks delivering end product or picking up steel and other stuff.

[SOCOM42]

Being in the rust belt is hard on vehicles. When I drove older cars and trucks, my nemesis was brake lines. They usually rot through under the clamps since salt works its way in there and doesn't get removed when you wash the vehicle.

And I learned that when you blow a line or 2, just put all new brake lines in, or they will continue to break through. I used to keep a 50' coil of hard line and bulk fittings when I drove old junk...

Oh yes, oh yes! EXACTLY so.

I now have all new lines that don't rust at all, some sort of copper or bronze material.

Both Jeeps are done with it, one was 2 years old when it rotted out here in New England.

Had it happen on others also, one thing done was to inspect brake fluid level frequently.

[Box of frogs]

Ok. New part installed and I’ve been back bush hogging trails and fields today.
Looks to me like Kubota recognized the tie rod diameter was inferior. The new part diameter is bigger
Old rod .81 inches, new rod 1.11 inches diameter.
Cleaned the contact surface with a wire brush and WD40 , greased the new ends and bolted them in.
BoF

19377

19378

[shootbrownelk]

Looks like you're back in business BOF, after spending $480.00.

[Box of frogs]

Looks like you're back in business BOF, after spending $480.00.

Yeah that purchase hurt. I was paranoid as hell yesterday cutting brush. Kept looking at the front axle and had the bucket lowered like a brush guard. Lol.
The counter guy was nice enough and very knowledgeable regarding my model tractor.
I also have a rim, insert, and tire on order through the same place. Been three weeks now.
I had to pay up front for that one and wait for delivery.
I got a better deal through them than any place else. The counter guy told me he screwed up when he ordered the rim assembly and I got it at his cost.

When that comes in I will post some pictures of the wheel change out.
Not sure how I’m gonna pull that one off.
The new wheel assembly is 250 pounds.
The wheel on my tractor is fluid filled and I am doing this job alone.

Where are all the friends I have helped over the many years. Fixing their broke shit for them or showing them how to do jobs theirselves instead of paying some one. They are all either busy or I live too far away now.
Fu-ck ‘em. I’ve been doing two and three man jobs by myself my whole life. One more will be ok

BoF

[shootbrownelk]

Be careful with that wheel change BOF, an older rancher out here working alone was found dead after being pinned under a fluid filled wheel/tire that he couldn't get out from under.

[Chiefster23]

I recently changed a fluid filled tractor tire. I stood the tire up and used a hydraulic Jack to perfectly align the height of the tractor to match up the studs to the holes in the rim. Then used a big crowbar to lever the tire straight back to mount the rim on the studs. A major PITA but I did accomplish it solo.

[T-Man 1066]

I have done foam filled skidloader tires by myself. F'n heavy.

Also moved a fluid filled tire, 18.4 x 38" on my 66 series IH to the inner rim bead by myself. Yep, take it slow, be careful.

And I agree about the missing friends when I need help. Got one good friend that would help, he is forever helping anybody and everybody so not always available. Rest of them are not so reliable.

[Mad Trapper]

Just getting back to this thread.

Glad to hear tie rod is fixed. $480? WTF for a part that seems to have been originally under engineered.

Those cotter pins/castle nuts can be a PITA. Done a lot here on cars driven in salty snow all winter. Hit with penetrating oil/ATF acetone first. Straighten out bent end, then a lot of times you can grab the head end with channel locks. No go? If you snip off the ends with dykes often you can get a socket on the nut. Just barley turn the nut back and forth, most times will loosen the cotter pieces so you can drive them out with a punch. Then there is the "hot knife" but you might screw one of the parts or seals you want to save...

Done tractor tires. 2-3 friends helping is a good idea. Last time I cut a tire on my Ford N (small tires 12 X28) I priced a new Firestone was > $400, then there was a tube and getting it mounted. Place called Tucker Tire, I think out of TN?, had a set of two, mounted on rims, shipped, for a little more than $600. Not Firestones but have held up well for ~15 years now.

Also didn't have to pay state sales tax. If you need tractor tires, look them up

[Box of frogs]

Picked up the tire and rim today

19455

I was so proud to get it
I drove back with the tailgate down like it was a 12 point buck.

Im dreading this job already.
I’ll start a new thread Saturday when I start to pull the old wheel.

BoF

[Mad Trapper]

Get at least 1-2 friends-helpers.

Buy a 1-2 cases of beer and a few steaks, taters and veggies for later

[NRATC53]

I think its a undersized part for the tractor - I was pushing over some trees and bush hogging.
I had the bucket too high on one particular tree about 3" in diameter and the weight of the tractor was all pressed down on the tree and the tie rod. Totally my fault. Should have come in lower with the bucket and held the trunk to the ground till the front axle passed over.

BoF

Yup, the tie rods on that series kubota are way too thin (IMO) I have a 20 year old New Holland that, while it has it's issues (too many damn safety interlocks) It is built pretty well. Learned to drive on a 1937 Oliver, many decades ago

[Box of frogs]

Changed the glow plug relay and control module today.
No more random dash light coming on while working.
Seems this is a common failure at 1100 hours on the L3010 model.

BoF

[Sparkyprep]

I've only got 40 hrs. on my L4802 so far. Not one single issue.