Good Investment ideas

[Coppertop]

Got what I could away from the stock market- just don't see it doing me any good right now. I think we have hit a plateau and when it jumps up the next time, it's gonna come crashing back down. I don't have time to monitor it constantly so I'm out for now. I'm not sure I just want to keep it in the bank either.

What are good investments to build up? Gold? Silver? Those still smack of the stock market to me. Guns, ammo, preps? Material things that I can sell right away?

What about paying off the house? My concern with that is if the economy does tank, am I ahead? During this last down turn, the banks couldn't evict you so it gave you time to get a job and start paying again. Or did I see that incorrectly?

Any and all thoughts are appreciated

[SquirrelBait]

Tangibles are where it's at. Food water, Self defense, PMs. Take your pick.

Edit: Land is the best though.

[Montana Rancher]

Got what I could away from the stock market- just don't see it doing me any good right now. I think we have hit a plateau and when it jumps up the next time, it's gonna come crashing back down. I don't have time to monitor it constantly so I'm out for now. I'm not sure I just want to keep it in the bank either.

What are good investments to build up? Gold? Silver? Those still smack of the stock market to me. Guns, ammo, preps? Material things that I can sell right away?

What about paying off the house? My concern with that is if the economy does tank, am I ahead? During this last down turn, the banks couldn't evict you so it gave you time to get a job and start paying again. Or did I see that incorrectly?

Any and all thoughts are appreciated

Here is a good plan

1. get at least enough food, water, and cash to survive 1 month.

2. Now get enough to survive 3 months.

(Hint) the water issue is the hard one to solve, under dire straights you will need 1 gallon of water per person a day, and that is if you decide to not bathe. Doing the simple math at 1 gallon of water (6 pounds) for 90 days is A LOT OF WATER.

Next get enough to survive for 12 months, thinks about other things like sleeping bags, feminine hygene product, toilet paper, guns to protect your growing stockpiles, communications, security, books on how to garden, and hunt and make whiskey.

Next plan out for 18 months and consider family members joining you and bringing sick children with them, quaranteen procedures, bed lice, hygene on another level, housing for the additions, and of course protecting what you have from looters (government included)

Next lets take this out to 24 months with 1800 calories a day for all the members at your house, and entertainment so they don't go bitch crazy and just hang themselves and how about having enough fat, and vitamin D, and some way to reduce the stress on the entire population.

After laying that framework,

Once you have all of that figured out, I suggest putting the rest of your money into Silver and Gold. It has always been a great hedge against fiat money and will continue to do so.

[Innkeeper]

If you are looking for things for after SHTF and could be used as barter material, think building supplies. People are definitely going to need those and hey if need be you can always use them for your own projects.

[Montana Rancher]

If you are looking for things for after SHTF and could be used as barter material, think building supplies. People are definitely going to need those and hey if need be you can always use them for your own projects.

Quite possibly the worst post I have seen ever in my entire life.

Really you think building supplies will be the thing people think about after a major collapse?

I guess I should stock up on Shingles and wall paper and paint? What a good idea (sic)

[Innkeeper]

Quite possibly the worst post I have seen ever in my entire life.

Really you think building supplies will be the thing people think about after a major collapse?

I guess I should stock up on Shingles and wall paper and paint? What a good idea (sic)

I am talking 4x4, 2x4 and other lumber....stuff people can use to build, or do you have a lumber mill on your property where you can just fell trees and run them through creating what you need?

[ekim]

I am talking 4x4, 2x4 and other lumber....stuff people can use to build, or do you have a lumber mill on your property where you can just fell trees and run them through creating what you need?

Tread carefully, some consider MR a sort of god and his opinion / word is gospel.......

[Sparkyprep]

Tread carefully, some consider MR a sort of god and his opinion / word is gospel.......

I don't. But I do like him.

[Slippy]

As long as the FED continues to print money and participate in QE the stock market will artificially rise but when it crashes watchout!

I still have stocks and mutual funds but I'm not adding to the market. My goal is debt free, and I'm close. Old habits are hard to change and I've always kept a line of credit going but having the land and house paid for is a feeling of true liberty.

Replenishable food, water and a strong storage of certain goods is important to me. Having some cash on hand is good too. Weapons, Ammo, PM's are excellent choices as is good quality machinery/tangible goods.

I disagree with MR, having some Building Materials around is like a small insurance policy. Homes, as modern as they are today, are all built around the model of "Planned Obsolescence" so they will fail. Nothing wrong with keeping some lumber, roofing, siding, nails, screws etc around for repairs or projects. Like it or not, the EPA has jacked up every manufacturing sector and building materials has been hit hard in the last 30 years. Building Materials prices are higher today than during the building boom and it is due to mill shutdowns and regulations, not demand. I see inflation affecting everything, building materials as well as food, fuel etc.

If we continue on this Fed debt/deficit/spending spree, one day the Feds may come for IRA's 401 (k) and pensions. Scary deal so I want to have zero debt and have as much tangible goods as I can the older I get.

[Inor]

I usually have anywhere between 700 and 1000 board feet of select furniture-grade hardwood on hand at any given time. I do not have it as a prep, although I guess it could be. I have it because I am woodworker and I just like having some on hand if I am struck with a bolt of inspiration and need to build something. I buy it when it is cheapest (usually January-March) or if I happen to see a nice board or two when I am walking through the wood store (those cases are usually Bird's Eye maple which is never cheap and never on sale).

If I were thinking of just buying 100 2x4 studs to keep around, I would be VERY careful with how and where you stack them for storage. Building material wood is notoriously wet, even after it has been kiln dried. That and the fact that most of it is rift sawed now means that it is almost guaranteed to warp and/or split if you are not REAL careful with how you stack it.

[Slippy]

Good point Inor, I'll add that if you're gonna keep some dimensional lumber on hand, store Pressure Treated Lumber and keep it inside. I've posted this before and I'll post it again...Keep Wood Inside where it belongs!

[omegabrock]

As long as the FED continues to print money and participate in QE the stock market will artificially rise but when it crashes watchout!

I still have stocks and mutual funds but I'm not adding to the market. My goal is debt free, and I'm close. Old habits are hard to change and I've always kept a line of credit going but having the land and house paid for is a feeling of true liberty.

Replenishable food, water and a strong storage of certain goods is important to me. Having some cash on hand is good too. Weapons, Ammo, PM's are excellent choices as is good quality machinery/tangible goods.

I disagree with MR, having some Building Materials around is like a small insurance policy. Homes, as modern as they are today, are all built around the model of "Planned Obsolescence" so they will fail. Nothing wrong with keeping some lumber, roofing, siding, nails, screws etc around for repairs or projects. Like it or not, the EPA has jacked up every manufacturing sector and building materials has been hit hard in the last 30 years. Building Materials prices are higher today than during the building boom and it is due to mill shutdowns and regulations, not demand. I see inflation affecting everything, building materials as well as food, fuel etc.

If we continue on this Fed debt/deficit/spending spree, one day the Feds may come for IRA's 401 (k) and pensions. Scary deal so I want to have zero debt and have as much tangible goods as I can the older I get.

not to hijack this thread, but ever notice that when things need to be cut from the budget, the first things nominated are also the same ones that are paid into...notice the 'free money' is never volunteered to be cut?

[omegabrock]

Inor, can you hook me up with some plans for a can storage system i'm thinking of? i can build it but i lack the experience of making the plans...if that makes sense

[Slippy]

I usually have anywhere between 700 and 1000 board feet of select furniture-grade hardwood on hand at any given time. I do not have it as a prep, although I guess it could be. I have it because I am woodworker and I just like having some on hand if I am struck with a bolt of inspiration and need to build something. I buy it when it is cheapest (usually January-March) or if I happen to see a nice board or two when I am walking through the wood store (those cases are usually Bird's Eye maple which is never cheap and never on sale).

If I were thinking of just buying 100 2x4 studs to keep around, I would be VERY careful with how and where you stack them for storage. Building material wood is notoriously wet, even after it has been kiln dried. That and the fact that most of it is rift sawed now means that it is almost guaranteed to warp and/or split if you are not REAL careful with how you stack it.

Wood is made of cellulose and lignin and thus takes in and expels moisture. Even if it is kiln dried and stored properly, wood will take in moisture. Maybe having some metal framing studs is a good idea? I do not...YET. Metal Studs alleviate the whole wood rot, warp, cup thing. You might have to protect the metal by priming it but why not? I've done "crazier" things!

[Arklatex]

I am talking 4x4, 2x4 and other lumber....stuff people can use to build, or do you have a lumber mill on your property where you can just fell trees and run them through creating what you need?
I do. I have a timberking b20. It's not a prep though, it's a side business.

[Inor]

Inor, can you hook me up with some plans for a can storage system i'm thinking of? i can build it but i lack the experience of making the plans...if that makes sense

What I would do (and presently do), is to lay some scrap pieces (inside as Slippy mentioned) perpendicular to the direction I intend to lay the boards. Space them about 18 inches apart. Lay the lumber, wide side down, on the scrap pieces and make sure they are touching each other. Stack them in layers, minimizing the amount of surface area exposed to fresh air.

The idea is to minimize the surface area of the lumber exposed directly to fresh air because we are trying to get the board to dry out (or absorb moisture) consistently along the whole length of the board as possible. In other words, if one part of the board dries out quickly, and another part dries out slowly, the board will ABSOLUTELY warp or split every time.

Be careful how you stack the lumber to make sure that the surface area exposed to direct air is consistent along the whole length of the board. If you have enough lumber to keep them flat while binding them all flat with ratcheting tie downs, do so. Also, paint the ends with a good quality latex paint. End grain releases water much more quickly than side grain, even on rift sawn lumber.

The problem with rift sawn boards is that the lumber mill saws the log to maximize the number of boards they can cut from it. In doing so, end grain is exposed along the whole length of the board, usually on the widest face. (Grain usually does not run exactly straight through the log.) That means some parts of the board dry out faster than others and cause warping and checking. Quarter sawn wood usually does not have that problem, but it is crazy expensive and probably is not even available for construction grade materials.

Also, covering the whole pile loosely with a blue plastic tarp seems to help a great deal. I think it keeps the moisture in and prevents the edge piece from drying too quickly.

Just as a general rule of thumb, a 6 1/2 inch wide board will change width by about an 1/8 inch (wider or narrower) through the course of the year just by humidity. The width changing inconsistently along the length of the board is what causes it to warp and check.

[Slippy]

What I would do (and presently do), is to lay some scrap pieces (inside as Slippy mentioned) perpendicular to the direction I intend to lay the boards. Space them about 18 inches apart. Lay the lumber, wide side down, on the scrap pieces and make sure they are touching each other. Stack them in layers, minimizing the amount of surface area exposed to fresh air.

The idea is to minimize the surface area of the lumber exposed directly to fresh air because we are trying to get the board to dry out (or absorb moisture) consistently along the whole length of the board as possible. In other words, if one part of the board dries out quickly, and another part dries out slowly, the board will ABSOLUTELY warp or split every time.

Be careful how you stack the lumber to make sure that the surface area exposed to direct air is consistent along the whole length of the board. If you have enough lumber to keep them flat while binding them all flat with ratcheting tie downs, do so. Also, paint the ends with a good quality latex paint. End grain releases water much more quickly than side grain, even on rift sawn lumber.

The problem with rift sawn boards is that the lumber mill saws the log to maximize the number of boards they can cut from it. In doing so, end grain is exposed along the whole length of the board, usually on the widest face. (Grain usually does not run exactly straight through the log.) That means some parts of the board dry out faster than others and cause warping and checking. Quarter sawn wood usually does not have that problem, but it is crazy expensive and probably is not even available for construction grade materials.

Also, covering the whole pile loosely with a blue plastic tarp seems to help a great deal. I think it keeps the moisture in and prevents the edge piece from drying too quickly.

Just as a general rule of thumb, a 6 1/2 inch wide board will change width by about an 1/8 inch (wider or narrower) through the course of the year just by humidity. The width changing inconsistently along the length of the board is what causes it to warp and check.

(Slippy slaps his forehead!)
Inor was the smart guy in my wood science classes... when I was day dreaming about the waitresses at the bar.

[Deebo]

Right now, I'm just trying to keep all the tanks full, propane, and vehicles. I need more water, but my storage room is a mess. Probably grab six four three packs at the dollar tree.
I don't expect anything crazy to happen this week or next, but I also don't expect a kitchen fire, but I do have an extenquisher close.
My next big decision is to go with the Ar platform, or just a nice rifle. I like the price of ammo for the Ar.

[Inor]

(Slippy slaps his forehead!)
Inor was the smart guy in my wood science classes... when I was day dreaming about the waitresses at the bar.

Hardly. I've just ruined a lot of lumber of the years. :D

Edit: Is Wood Science really a class? I just learned it from an old Norwegian guy. :D

[Slippy]

Hardly. I've just ruined a lot of lumber of the years. :D

Edit: Is Wood Science really a class? I just learned it from an old Norwegian guy. :D

Actually Wood Science and Forest Products is a bona fide study.

[James m]

Is it anything like a degree in cupcake arts.

Invest in things that are needed every day. Water food or things to get water and food. Essentials.

[Slippy]

James m

Probably a little different then cupcake arts but that's just a guess. Most of the guys that I knew in in the Forestry industry were pretty smart rednecks that had plenty of non-cupcake tendencies.

Most major University's that offer degrees in Forestry offer classes or curriculum in Wood Science or Forest Products. Ole Slippy actually has a Forest Products Minor from a Football Powerhouse that has a well regarded College of Forestry. Like I've said, Slippy's one sophisticated Sum Bitch.:beerchug:

[Inor]

Actually Wood Science and Forest Products is a bona fide study.

Awesome! That sounds like something I should look into for something to do on the weekends. For the last few years, I have been trying to convince Mrs Inor that I need one of these and a Bobcat to load the logs onto it:

http://www.woodmizer.com/us/PortableEquipment/ManualSawmills/LT35Sawmill.aspx

She has not explicitly said "No", so I take that to mean "Hell yeah! Go for it Inor!" The problem is I do not know anybody that is a sawyer to teach me how to use the thing. A Wood Science class might be just the ticket!

Thanks Slippy!

[James m]

I took carpentry at a tech school around ten fifteen years ago and they cut down trees to clear a lot then they had a portable sawmill work the wood that was cleared to use in the house we were building.

[Slippy]

Awesome! That sounds like something I should look into for something to do on the weekends. For the last few years, I have been trying to convince Mrs Inor that I need one of these and a Bobcat to load the logs onto it:

http://www.woodmizer.com/us/PortableEquipment/ManualSawmills/LT35Sawmill.aspx

She has not explicitly said "No", so I take that to mean "Hell yeah! Go for it Inor!" The problem is I do not know anybody that is a sawyer to teach me how to use the thing. A Wood Science class might be just the ticket!

Thanks Slippy!

You betcha Inor!

Check out the Bobcat Utility Vehicle called the Toolcat. If I had your money, this would be in my garage
http://www.bobcat.com/utility_machines/toolcat

[Slippy]

I took carpentry at a tech school around ten fifteen years ago and they cut down trees to clear a lot then they had a portable sawmill work the wood that was cleared to use in the house we were building.

I used to work for a large Lumber company and I'm here to tell you, Modern Sawmill technology is a powerful thing to watch. I've been in sawmills from the Southern Pine Mills to the Upper Midwest to the Pacific NorthWest and they are amazing things in action. Taking big logs, debarking, running them through the head rig saw is a thing of power. Kind of like watching bulldozers, it never gets old.

[Inor]

You betcha Inor!

Check out the Bobcat Utility Vehicle called the Toolcat. If I had your money, this would be in my garage
http://www.bobcat.com/utility_machines/toolcat

If I had my money it might be in my garage too. Unfortunately, Obama has taken all of my money.

That is a cool idea for a machine though. It looks like it would be more versatile than a regular Bobcat. Hmmm...

[Inor]

I do. I have a timberking b20. It's not a prep though, it's a side business.

Ark -

Please tell me more about your Timberking. Why did you choose it? Are you happy with it? How does it compare with the Wood Mizer? (The only reason I default to Wood Mizer is because I saw one at a woodworking show and it looked to be pretty well made.) Where did you learn to use it? How long do blades last?

Seriously, this has been something that has interested me for a LONG time and something I am seriously considering getting.

[Montana Rancher]

Nice hijack of the thread, rather than useful information from many people about alternate investments, it ends up as a discussion of wood.

I'm losing patience.

Please read the first post and go away with the wood hugger talk

[Slippy]

If I had my money it might be in my garage too. Unfortunately, Obama has taken all of my money.

That is a cool idea for a machine though. It looks like it would be more versatile than a regular Bobcat. Hmmm...

Good point, Uncle Sugar gots my money and be givin' it to lots of folk in need.

Seriously, the Bobcat Toolcat looks to be real versatile, especially on a small farm. So many things. so few dollars....

[Slippy]

Nice hijack of the thread, rather than useful information from many people about alternate investments, it ends up as a discussion of wood.

I'm losing patience.

Please read the first post and go away with the wood hugger talk

Wood Hugger? I and many great Americans made a hardworking living (me for 18 years) working in a vital industry that grew trees, cut them, processed them to build great American products. One of my largest hard earned investments is a tree farm that I own. I'm about the last SOB that would be called a tree hugger, I can assure you of that.

[Montana Rancher]

Wood Hugger? I and many great Americans made a hardworking living (me for 18 years) working in a vital industry that grew trees, cut them, processed them to build great American products. One of my largest hard earned investments is a tree farm that I own. I'm about the last SOB that would be called a tree hugger, I can assure you of that.

Sorry to pop your balloon, but I chose my words carefully.

I didn't say "tree hugger" which is a person I totally despise, I said "wood hugger" which I think is a separate point.

IMO the more trees we cut the more jobs we create with a renewable source, and it means we have less beetle kill, which also means we spend less money fighting wildfires caused by beetle kill.

I live smack in the middle of the Rocky Mountains, and I usually spend 1.5 months breathing smoke from forest fires. Trust me I think the entire northwest should be logged!

[Slippy]

Sorry to pop your balloon, but I chose my words carefully.

I didn't say "tree hugger" which is a person I totally despise, I said "wood hugger" which I think is a separate point.

IMO the more trees we cut the more jobs we create with a renewable source, and it means we have less beetle kill, which also means we spend less money fighting wildfires caused by beetle kill.

I live smack in the middle of the Rocky Mountains, and I usually spend 1.5 months breathing smoke from forest fires. Trust me I think the entire northwest should be logged!

I get where you are coming from MR. In the Southeast US, we usually don't have to deal with the forest fires that you do. My point was that I believe an investment in renewable Forest Resources is a good thing. I'm all for cutting trees, planting new ones, and then cutting them to make the products that we need. My timber is primarily hardwoods and some Southern Yellow Pine. I'm proud of my forest management skills and hope to utilize my investment as long as I can.
In the North West, you've got a different set of obstacles than I do.

[Inor]

Nice hijack of the thread, rather than useful information from many people about alternate investments, it ends up as a discussion of wood.

I'm losing patience.

Please read the first post and go away with the wood hugger talk

There ain't no hijackin' on OTP. We are just of bunch of good old boys having a conversation. Wherever that conversation leads is fine as long as 2 or more folks are interested. (Correct me if I am mistaken.)

[Slippy]

There ain't no hijackin' on OTP. We are just of bunch of good old boys having a conversation. Wherever that conversation leads is fine as long as 2 or more folks are interested. (Correct me if I am mistaken.)

You are correct as usual!

In this great Country, we have lots of regional issues that are sometimes difficult for others outside a specific region to understand. Regardless, we live in the GREATEST Country ever.

[Montana Rancher]

There ain't no hijackin' on OTP. We are just of bunch of good old boys having a conversation. Wherever that conversation leads is fine as long as 2 or more folks are interested. (Correct me if I am mistaken.)

Inor
I feel anytime we would meet it would be the best of times, although I don't have many friends I think of you as 1 of them. (ditto Mrs)

That being said a thread titled "best investments" and turns to wood,

I am standing by my post, hijacked but let us get back on point

BESIDES WOOD

What would be your best investment with additional funds? I would re-read my initial post and build on that.

[Inor]

Inor
I feel anytime we would meet it would be the best of times, although I don't have many friends I think of you as 1 of them. (ditto Mrs)

That being said a thread titled "best investments" and turns to wood,

I am standing by my post, hijacked but let us get back on point

BESIDES WOOD

What would be your best investment with additional funds? I would re-read my initial post and build on that.

The feeling is mutual sir. And we will meet at some time; I am sure of it.

As far as investments...

First and foremost, pay off any debt you might have, except government debt. - Those pricks deserve to be holding the bag if it falls to shit.

Second, build up at least 3 months of green cash to cover bills and expenses.

Third, build up at least a year of water, food, clothing, fuel and other necessary consumables for you and all of your family members you expect to cover. We are at 16 months for our immediate family, but that is because I expect a few follow-ons that I cannot turn away.

Forth, build up enough of a stock of PM to cover 3 years of consumables at current prices of consumables and spot price of PM. In SHTF situation, that will last about an additional 6 months.

Finally, collect tools and devices that will allow you and your people to prosper when the rebuilding starts. (I.E. a portable sawmill) :D

Notice, I did not mention anything about weapons. I assume you have those already with enough ammunition to keep your skills in tune.

[shootbrownelk]

Tangibles are where it's at. Food water, Self defense, PMs. Take your pick.

Edit: Land is the best though.

SB, land can be taken from you. Ask any American Indian.

[James m]

SB, land can be taken from you. Ask any American Indian.
http://fox43.com/2014/09/05/philadelphia-couple-has-their-house-seized-after-sons-40-drug-bust/

Dirty is the best way to describe this. Its just another example of the government doing whatever it wants.

I would say you can't invest in anything that can't be taken away somehow. If someone wants your stuff they are going to take it. You can just make them work harder for it :)

[Arklatex]

Ark -

Please tell me more about your Timberking. Why did you choose it? Are you happy with it? How does it compare with the Wood Mizer? (The only reason I default to Wood Mizer is because I saw one at a woodworking show and it looked to be pretty well made.) Where did you learn to use it? How long do blades last?

Seriously, this has been something that has interested me for a LONG time and something I am seriously considering getting.

1: it was chosen because it was the best on the market at the time. My father bought it when I was much younger. It has been a great machine.

2: timberking has a sawmill school in MO. I learned the ropes as a youngster. It's a one man mill be we always ran a 3 man operation. 1 operating, 1 unloading and 1 felling trees and skidding them to the mill.

3: the blade life is variable, wood type factors in. I usually switch them out every 4 hours. Make sure to get the re sharpening kit or find a good setter/sharpening shop in your area.

Sorry for the thread hijacking op...

[Inor]

1: it was chosen because it was the best on the market at the time. My father bought it when I was much younger. It has been a great machine.

2: timberking has a sawmill school in MO. I learned the ropes as a youngster. It's a one man mill be we always ran a 3 man operation. 1 operating, 1 unloading and 1 felling trees and skidding them to the mill.

3: the blade life is variable, wood type factors in. I usually switch them out every 4 hours. Make sure to get the re sharpening kit or find a good setter/sharpening shop in your area.

Sorry for the thread hijacking op...

Thanks for the info! That is a great skill to have, especially for a prepper. Nicely done!

I noticed they are made in KC. I may have to look at them more seriously as KC is only about a 6 hour drive from here and picking it up at the factory would not be a bad idea.

[Arklatex]

collect tools and devices that will allow you and your people to prosper when the rebuilding starts.

Add land with a water source (get at least 1 berkey or make one) and you're good to go. Make sure to get your bullets, beans and band aids sorted out as well. After this is accomplished you can start looking into pm and tangible barter items.

[omegabrock]

What I would do (and presently do), is to lay some scrap pieces (inside as Slippy mentioned) perpendicular to the direction I intend to lay the boards.

this is pretty good and i wouldnt have thought about the tarp...about the rift sawn, i have no idea what that means lol...

but, what i meant was a canning storage system. i was thinking of a way to rotate stock...first in, first out

[omegabrock]

also, what's a timberking?

back to topic though...i think a good investment would depend on what your goals are. example - if you are investing for normal life, i would say paying your house off would be a great idea. it would give you more disposable income (or money in savings) and get rid of the biggest monthly bill/expense the average person has...however, if you are investing in your future and if the thought of some sort of collapse is inevitable closer than we expect it (which is definitely a scenario) than the extra money you would put into the house (or other long term financial investments) would be better used for things like Inor said...

i do think one thing people neglect though, the simple pleasures...things like books, and board games or cards. crayons for kids/grandkids and paper...

[Montana Rancher]

The feeling is mutual sir. And we will meet at some time; I am sure of it.

As far as investments...

First and foremost, pay off any debt you might have, except government debt. - Those pricks deserve to be holding the bag if it falls to shit.

Second, build up at least 3 months of green cash to cover bills and expenses.

Third, build up at least a year of water, food, clothing, fuel and other necessary consumables for you and all of your family members you expect to cover. We are at 16 months for our immediate family, but that is because I expect a few follow-ons that I cannot turn away.

Forth, build up enough of a stock of PM to cover 3 years of consumables at current prices of consumables and spot price of PM. In SHTF situation, that will last about an additional 6 months.

Finally, collect tools and devices that will allow you and your people to prosper when the rebuilding starts. (I.E. a portable sawmill) :D

Notice, I did not mention anything about weapons. I assume you have those already with enough ammunition to keep your skills in tune.

Yes as we assumed, we could be best of friends, good post.

[Innkeeper]

Tread carefully, some consider MR a sort of god and his opinion / word is gospel.......

I have served Almost 21 years in the military and retired this spring medically from injuries while deployed. I will exercise my 1st Amendment rights just like MR will and after all those years in service I have learned not everyone agrees and I do not care if everyone agrees with me, but thanks for the word.

[Jerry D Young]

This is something I came up with a long time ago and was never able to follow through on. Just consider what might apply to you and forget the rest.

What I'd do if I could start over. This is investment/retirement money only, not total income use. It pre-supposes extensive preps and back up funds in place all the time. At least a year of preps, a year of equivalent salary for normal things if income stops, and a large emergency cash fund for the unexpected expenses such as car repairs or medical bills.

The plan is approximately 1/3 each income producing property (35%), more or less regular financial investments, diversified as to type (33%), and precious metals (32%) to spread the risks, no matter what happens. I don’t think it is possible to accurately predict what will work in the future, so I prefer to cover as many bases as possible.

If there isn't a reasonable amount for an item, shift the amount 50/50 to the other assets and PM assets, and then transfer to the item when enough is accumulated.

The Warrant trading account has to be managed, as do the separate parts of the self-managed Permanent Portfolio Fund.

I know that Permanent Whole Life Insurance gets a very bad rap. I think it is unjustified, if one understands just how it works and takes advantages of the possibilities, always knowing that it, like a 401(k) or any retirement fund, is a long term investment and will not have much value, especially compared to what goes into it, during the first 20 years.

But the payoffs are great, and it is one of the few ways to pass an inheritance down to future generations with only minimal tax impacts. And be aware that one of the reasons that I like it is that the investments that pay the dividends are not just conventional stocks and bonds. The applicable insurance companies that one would want to get a Permanent Whole Life Insurance Policy with are the same ones that one would use for Annuities.

And they have a wide portfolio of investments, including hard assets such as raw and income producing property, things like businesses, leasing of railroad rolling stock and motive power, warehouses, trucking fleets, fisheries, and all sorts of things besides just stocks and bonds.

Pretty much the same goes for the Annuities. You will hear lots of bashing. Research everything and think it through.

The rest can pretty much just be watched and changes made when the overall percentages get out of whack.

I'm not an investment person. This is just what I'd do with a significant amount of money I wanted to diversify so as not to lose too much in any one account. Seek professional advice before you make any investments.

For someone starting out, I would build solid credit, maintain a very minimum amount of debt in order to build that credit, and otherwise pay as you go, living a reasonable lifestyle without overdoing the fun, but having some, and always buy quality for a good price rather than just cheap. Keep long range goals in mind even when considering short term decisions.

Just my opinion.


 
20% - Income producing working farm/ranch primarily as a hedge for bad times so you’ll have food, plus income. Buy in and perhaps even some sweat equity when possible, but not to run and operate oneself.
15% - Quadraplexes on corner lots in small towns with live in manager as income producing property (usually not subject to apartment rules and restrictions in most places that can have rent controls put into place)

5% - Permanent Portfolio Fund (PRPFX)

2% - US Treasury Bonds (28+ years)(self-managed PPF)(equalized each year)
2% - US Treasury Money Market Fund (self-managed PPF)(equalized each year)
2% - Gold coins (self-managed PPF)(equalized each year)
2% - Growth Funds (self-managed PPF)(equalized each year)

5% - Blue chip mutual funds – keep rolling the dividends back into the same funds (PRFDX) (FBGRX)(FBCVX)
5% - Warrant trading accounts – Never buy more warrants than the money would buy of the stock.

2% - Deferred annuity #1 Paid into until retirement for monthly income (Hartford, John Hancock, Met Life, Mutual of Omaha, and Prudential)
3% - Deferred annuity #2 Paid into until retirement for big ticket items (Hartford, John Hancock, Met Life, Mutual of Omaha, and Prudential)

2% - A trust fund to capitalize a few projects I have in mind.

3% - Permanent whole life insurance (dividend reinvested/no withdrawals)(if under 50 else 5% trust fund)(Check the same insurance companies as for the Deferred annuities. Many offer participatory Permanent Whole Life Insurance.)

5% - 1 ounce Gold Eagle (in hand)
5% - 1/2 ounce Gold Eagle (in hand)
5% - 1/4 ounce Gold Eagle (in hand)
5% - 1/10 ounce Gold Eagle (in hand)

2.5% - Pre-1965 silver dimes (in hand)
2.5% - Pre-1965 silver quarters (in hand)
2.5% - Pre-1965 silver halves (in hand)

4.5% - One-ounce Silver Eagle rounds (in hand)

[Montana Rancher]

As long as the FED continues to print money and participate in QE the stock market will artificially rise but when it crashes watchout!

I still have stocks and mutual funds but I'm not adding to the market. My goal is debt free, and I'm close. Old habits are hard to change and I've always kept a line of credit going but having the land and house paid for is a feeling of true liberty.

Replenishable food, water and a strong storage of certain goods is important to me. Having some cash on hand is good too. Weapons, Ammo, PM's are excellent choices as is good quality machinery/tangible goods.

I disagree with MR, having some Building Materials around is like a small insurance policy. Homes, as modern as they are today, are all built around the model of "Planned Obsolescence" so they will fail. Nothing wrong with keeping some lumber, roofing, siding, nails, screws etc around for repairs or projects. Like it or not, the EPA has jacked up every manufacturing sector and building materials has been hit hard in the last 30 years. Building Materials prices are higher today than during the building boom and it is due to mill shutdowns and regulations, not demand. I see inflation affecting everything, building materials as well as food, fuel etc.

If we continue on this Fed debt/deficit/spending spree, one day the Feds may come for IRA's 401 (k) and pensions. Scary deal so I want to have zero debt and have as much tangible goods as I can the older I get.

A good point having "some" building materials on the homestead is an asset, I keep about 20 2x4's and I have a lot of 2x6 and 2'x8's in the barn (treated) from a recent deconstruct. I guess my point was, "gee I have $2000 to spend I guess I should buy some lumber"

[Montana Rancher]

Tread carefully, some consider MR a sort of god and his opinion / word is gospel.......

I am tempted to give you a link to my wifes Email for 2 reasons.

1. She would laugh her ass off.

2. Her instant reply would be... No

Which is also my reply

I've been doing this a lot longer than most, I just have the advantage of experience and patience.