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  1. #11
    VIP Member! / Firearms expert SOCOM42's Avatar
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    Other than the set, it could be your filing of the teeth.

    Whether you are left or right handed only one side is cut easily, it is a common problem with filing.

    Take a 10X magnifier and look at each tooth for a difference in the tooth form.

    You might need a filing rig to make them equal.
    A STORM IS COMING! LET'S GO BRANDON!

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  3. #12
    Might want to look at the face angle of the teeth. If they are not neutral, but consistently angled even a few degrees, that might account for your curve.

    That being said, Awesome looking saw. Love to see examples of good craftsmanship. Not everything should be mass produced.
    Last edited by T-Man 1066; 11-28-2021 at 11:27 AM. Reason: Fat fingered a word...

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  5. #13
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    You need more bbq...Thats the problem.
    Awesome work pal.
    You will never be forgotten. RIP Corporal Bradley Coy (USMC)

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  7. #14
    Just this guy Inor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SOCOM42 View Post
    Other than the set, it could be your filing of the teeth.

    Whether you are left or right handed only one side is cut easily, it is a common problem with filing.

    Take a 10X magnifier and look at each tooth for a difference in the tooth form.

    You might need a filing rig to make them equal.
    I made a little jig for the file in an attempt to get each tooth as close as possible to all the others. I think that more-or-less worked. When I look at them under a magnifying glass, it looks like possibly the teeth on the file may have been enough to set the teeth a couple degrees just filing them. (I used a brand new file and filed all the teeth from the same side of the plate and that may have been enough to bend the teeth a little.) The saw plate is only .017 thick and it is just 1095 steel so I may have misjudged its ability to withstand the filing?

    Quote Originally Posted by T-Man 1066 View Post
    Might want to look at the face angle of the teeth. If they are not neutral, but consistently angled even a few degrees, that might account for your curve.

    That being said, Awesome looking saw. Love to see examples of good craftsmanship. Not everything should be mass produced.
    I filed it mostly for a rip cut. For the first inch and a half (near the toe), I cut the teeth with a 20 degree rake to make it easier to start the cut. The rest of the saw is filed at 5 degree rake. I did not put any fleem angle on it. (Once I get it cutting straight, I will likely file in a small fleem angle - maybe about 5 degrees on every other tooth from opposite sides just because I hate the wood fibers hanging out the back of the cut.)

    What I am going to try, while I wait for my new swedge to show up, is to VERY carefully hammer the teeth flat, then just do one quick pass on each tooth with the file to re-establish the point. I think I will also do the filing pass alternating the teeth from opposite sides of the plate so if I do push a tooth one way, the next tooth will be pushed the opposite. That should improve it some but I expect it to bind up in the cut after about 1/8 to 1/4 inch, until I get the swedge to do the set.

    If it STILL does not work right after the set, then I will just file the teeth off and re-file the teeth at 11 or 12 PPI. I may be asking too much from such a thin saw plate with 2 inches between the teeth and the back.
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  9. #15
    VIP Member! / Firearms expert SOCOM42's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Inor View Post
    I made a little jig for the file in an attempt to get each tooth as close as possible to all the others. I think that more-or-less worked. When I look at them under a magnifying glass, it looks like possibly the teeth on the file may have been enough to set the teeth a couple degrees just filing them. (I used a brand new file and filed all the teeth from the same side of the plate and that may have been enough to bend the teeth a little.) The saw plate is only .017 thick and it is just 1095 steel so I may have misjudged its ability to withstand the filing?



    I filed it mostly for a rip cut. For the first inch and a half (near the toe), I cut the teeth with a 20 degree rake to make it easier to start the cut. The rest of the saw is filed at 5 degree rake. I did not put any fleem angle on it. (Once I get it cutting straight, I will likely file in a small fleem angle - maybe about 5 degrees on every other tooth from opposite sides just because I hate the wood fibers hanging out the back of the cut.)

    What I am going to try, while I wait for my new swedge to show up, is to VERY carefully hammer the teeth flat, then just do one quick pass on each tooth with the file to re-establish the point. I think I will also do the filing pass alternating the teeth from opposite sides of the plate so if I do push a tooth one way, the next tooth will be pushed the opposite. That should improve it some but I expect it to bind up in the cut after about 1/8 to 1/4 inch, until I get the swedge to do the set.

    If it STILL does not work right after the set, then I will just file the teeth off and re-file the teeth at 11 or 12 PPI. I may be asking too much from such a thin saw plate with 2 inches between the teeth and the back.
    What kind of a file are you using?

    A fine Swiss pattern file might do the trick.

    Is the plate hardened in any form?
    A STORM IS COMING! LET'S GO BRANDON!

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  11. #16
    Just this guy Inor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SOCOM42 View Post
    What kind of a file are you using?

    A fine Swiss pattern file might do the trick.

    Is the plate hardened in any form?
    It is a 7 3/4" Glardon Needle File. The ones I chose (I bought 2 of them.) are double-cut. https://www.vallorbe.com/en-ch/produ...s/needle-files

    They seem like pretty decent files, but it seems when they are brand new, the file is sharp enough they bend the teeth slightly.

    Flattening the saw teeth with a hammer, then re-sharpening the teeth does seem to help some. I'll know more for sure when the new swedge shows up.
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  12. #17
    VIP Member! / Firearms expert SOCOM42's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Inor View Post
    It is a 7 3/4" Glardon Needle File. The ones I chose (I bought 2 of them.) are double-cut. https://www.vallorbe.com/en-ch/produ...s/needle-files

    They seem like pretty decent files, but it seems when they are brand new, the file is sharp enough they bend the teeth slightly.

    Flattening the saw teeth with a hammer, then re-sharpening the teeth does seem to help some. I'll know more for sure when the new swedge shows up.
    Those are what I was referring to, no brand in mind, I have boxes of all different styles.

    They, and the diamond ones are common to my main trade, Toolmaker.

    Toolmaker paid well, engineer paid me even better, but I loved to make things,

    the more precise the better the feeling of accomplishment.

    I could not do both wherever I worked except for Harrington and Richardson as a process engineer.

    Started my own place a few years after i worked there, then the headaches arrived!

    Here, If I was doing your job, I would have made the swage set.

    Precision finished D-2 is a lot tougher steel untreated, I don't know if it comes that thin though.

    It is a bitch to machine in any form, would not loose its edge too soon.
    A STORM IS COMING! LET'S GO BRANDON!

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  14. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by SOCOM42 View Post
    Those are what I was referring to, no brand in mind, I have boxes of all different styles.

    They, and the diamond ones are common to my main trade, Toolmaker.

    Toolmaker paid well, engineer paid me even better, but I loved to make things,

    the more precise the better the feeling of accomplishment.

    I could not do both wherever I worked except for Harrington and Richardson as a process engineer.

    Started my own place a few years after i worked there, then the headaches arrived!

    Here, If I was doing your job, I would have made the swage set.

    Precision finished D-2 is a lot tougher steel untreated, I don't know if it comes that thin though.

    It is a bitch to machine in any form, would not loose its edge too soon.
    D2 is a joy to grind.. as much fun as voting demonrat!

    I don't think it comes that thin...

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  16. #19
    VIP Member! / Firearms expert SOCOM42's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by T-Man 1066 View Post
    D2 is a joy to grind.. as much fun as voting demonrat!

    I don't think it comes that thin...
    Oh, I know, use to make die sets out of the stuff, even milling the stuff was a bitch,

    it wore the shit out of HSS end mills.

    I spent thousands of hours grinding that shit in a Moore and Hauser Jig grinder,

    plus profiling die sections on a B&S surface grinder.

    I don't know what is available today, I no longer do that shit, just gun repair,

    remember, I an 80 years old, the guns are enough.

    I still do my own auto repair, last week I HAD to take one jeep to the garage to replace a O2 sensor,

    required the dropping of the front driveshaft, just no room on 34 degree ground to do it.

    A week before I replaced a front rotor and caliper on the same one myself.

    I just did a quick search, smallest was .0315".
    Last edited by SOCOM42; 11-28-2021 at 05:43 PM. Reason: added details
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  18. #20
    Just this guy Inor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SOCOM42 View Post
    Those are what I was referring to, no brand in mind, I have boxes of all different styles.

    They, and the diamond ones are common to my main trade, Toolmaker.

    Toolmaker paid well, engineer paid me even better, but I loved to make things,

    the more precise the better the feeling of accomplishment.

    I could not do both wherever I worked except for Harrington and Richardson as a process engineer.

    Started my own place a few years after i worked there, then the headaches arrived!

    Here, If I was doing your job, I would have made the swage set.

    Precision finished D-2 is a lot tougher steel untreated, I don't know if it comes that thin though.

    It is a bitch to machine in any form, would not loose its edge too soon.
    I wanted steel that is fairly soft (this has a hardness of 48-52 according to the manufacturer) because I was planning on using the same steel for making a pair of sash saws as well. I want to be able to change the configuration of the teeth on the sash saws depending on what I am cutting with them for each project. I will still use 1095 for the sash saws but I am definitely going to have to go with a thicker plate. Something around 0.025 or even 0.031.

    After farting around with it today, I am convinced that I just tried to go too thin with the saw plate. I am confident that I will eventually get it right, but damn...
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