Broken tie rod - Kubota tractor

[SOCOM42]

I will tell you a small story.

During my first week in sunny California in 1965,

I had just got off a freeway and stopped at the traffic light at the bottom of the ramp.

Light turned green and I proceeded to turn left while starting to move.

All of a sudden I had no steering!!!!!!!

Got out looked underneath, the pitman arm had broke in half!!!!!

Had it been a few minutes earlier I would have been doing 55 plus with NO STEERING AT ALL!!!

Found a pay phone and called a Ford dealer nearby, told him the problem, did I buy the car from them? no.

Told me to take it to the dealer I got it from, I told him that would be impossible, why he asked, they are in Massachusetts.

He said, OH, OK take it to him, it was towed there.

The car was only 3 months old at the time, under warranty.

The lord must have been looking out for me that day, again.


The car was a Galaxy 500, with a 406 engine with dual quads from the factory, four speed tranny.

Replaced the factory shifter with a Mickey Thompson speed shifter.

Had torsion bars installed that I had made.

[Slippy]

Excellent job BOF!

This time of year, can't afford for the tractor to go down.

Part ordered today. I had to sit down for this one 460.00 for the complete assembly.
OUCH !!!

Took the broken pieces off after work.
About 25 minutes time and it was done
15 minutes of that was getting the carter pins out of the crown nuts (not sure if that’s the correct term)
The pin heads were buried and facing away from me.
Need a 22mm wrench, dikes, small screwdriver to start the pins out, small hammer to gently tap the tie rod out of the housing.
Keep the broken ends and count the exposed threads on the adjustment connection so your alignment will be the same in the new piece.
I used the bucket to lift the front axle enough to hand turn the effected tire so I could get to the nuts easier.
BoF

[T-Man 1066]

Similar story. '78 Ranchero, swapped in a 351 Cleveland with some mods, was doing a bonzai run, about 120 through the country, came into town, slowed down to 30, and about a mile later, the left side outer tie rod just fell out of the ball socket. Worn out. It lurched left, I went across traffic into a parking lot. Pushed it back into the ball, tied a coat hanger around it, and got back to my shop where I could replace it. Had it done that about 10 miles earlier, probably wouldn't be a T-Man today. Proof that God is real!

[SOCOM42]

Similar story. '78 Ranchero, swapped in a 351 Cleveland with some mods, was doing a bonzai run, about 120 through the country, came into town, slowed down to 30, and about a mile later, the left side outer tie rod just fell out of the ball socket. Worn out. It lurched left, I went across traffic into a parking lot. Pushed it back into the ball, tied a coat hanger around it, and got back to my shop where I could replace it. Had it done that about 10 miles earlier, probably wouldn't be a T-Man today. Proof that God is real!

I am glad that someone else can relate to the subject.

I have to replace a tie rod end in the next month or so, not worn though,

nut is rotted, can't get that alone, besides whole unit is cheap enough.

Everything gets greased @ about 2,000 miles, now going down to 1,000 because we are hardly driving anywhere.


Added;

I don't want to think about that breaking when I was crossing the dessert at night @ about 120 MPH!

[White Shadow]

Similar story. '78 Ranchero, swapped in a 351 Cleveland with some mods, was doing a bonzai run, about 120 through the country, came into town, slowed down to 30, and about a mile later, the left side outer tie rod just fell out of the ball socket. Worn out. It lurched left, I went across traffic into a parking lot. Pushed it back into the ball, tied a coat hanger around it, and got back to my shop where I could replace it. Had it done that about 10 miles earlier, probably wouldn't be a T-Man today. Proof that God is real!

351C! That was a nice engine. I had a one of those in a '73 Mustang. Right after I got it I was doing about 40 one night and had my right rear wheel pass me, take a right turn across three other lanes of traffic and stop neatly in a parking spot at the Circle K. It had sheared off the studs and dropped onto the brake drum after the wheel departed. Cut a nice groove in the road, but drove nicely. Pulled into a parking lot, threw the wheel in the trunk, and walked home. Small town so no point in trying to do anything with it until morning.

[SOCOM42]

351C! That was a nice engine. I had a one of those in a '73 Mustang. Right after I got it I was doing about 40 one night and had my right rear wheel pass me, take a right turn across three other lanes of traffic and stop neatly in a parking spot at the Circle K. It had sheared off the studs and dropped onto the brake drum after the wheel departed. Cut a nice groove in the road, but drove nicely. Pulled into a parking lot, threw the wheel in the trunk, and walked home. Small town so no point in trying to do anything with it until morning.

I had a Bronco with a 351 C in it.

One day in heavy traffic at an intersection, I dropped the rear driveshaft, was in 2 wheel drive.

Had to gut out turn on the hubs and crawl under and detach the rear end of the shaft.

Let me tell you, there were some really pissed off drivers,

assholes could not understand it was not my fault or me being stupid.

Got on radio and called my brother, he had a replacement ready to go when I got there.

Like the Jeeps 4WD on the fly, both of mine have it, one locks up the differentials.


Note; had a commercially assigned VHF frequency for communication,

had two trucks delivering end product or picking up steel and other stuff.

[T-Man 1066]

Being in the rust belt is hard on vehicles. When I drove older cars and trucks, my nemesis was brake lines. They usually rot through under the clamps since salt works its way in there and doesn't get removed when you wash the vehicle.

And I learned that when you blow a line or 2, just put all new brake lines in, or they will continue to break through. I used to keep a 50' coil of hard line and bulk fittings when I drove old junk...

[SOCOM42]

Being in the rust belt is hard on vehicles. When I drove older cars and trucks, my nemesis was brake lines. They usually rot through under the clamps since salt works its way in there and doesn't get removed when you wash the vehicle.

And I learned that when you blow a line or 2, just put all new brake lines in, or they will continue to break through. I used to keep a 50' coil of hard line and bulk fittings when I drove old junk...

Oh yes, oh yes! EXACTLY so.

I now have all new lines that don't rust at all, some sort of copper or bronze material.

Both Jeeps are done with it, one was 2 years old when it rotted out here in New England.

Had it happen on others also, one thing done was to inspect brake fluid level frequently.

[Box of frogs]

Ok. New part installed and I’ve been back bush hogging trails and fields today.
Looks to me like Kubota recognized the tie rod diameter was inferior. The new part diameter is bigger
Old rod .81 inches, new rod 1.11 inches diameter.
Cleaned the contact surface with a wire brush and WD40 , greased the new ends and bolted them in.
BoF

[shootbrownelk]

Looks like you're back in business BOF, after spending $480.00.